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O N T 



BOOK OF 

NEEDLEWORK 

SEWIN6 - CROCHET - DARNING - KNITTING - EMBROIDERY 



Price Twenty-five Cents 



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.06 
Table of Contents 



Pages Pa(;es 

Plain Sewing and Mending 4—9 I'urnishings for a Bedroom 38-40 

luiibroidery 10-21 Crocheting 41-74 

Fancy Stitches; Marking; French Infants' Wear; Curtains; Lace In- 

Embroidcry; Eyelet Work; How to sertions and Edges; Underwear; 

Launder Hand Embroidered Articles. pijet Crochet; Venetian Crochet; 

Smocking 22-28 Doilies. 



Mat Stitch iMnhroidcry 29-31 



Tatting 75-81 



Swedish Weaving 17 and 32 Knitting 82-87 

JUnigal.iw Set 33-35 Weaving 88-92 

Cross Stitch 18 and rw O. N. T. Articles 92-99 




Copyrighted 191G 

by The Clark Thread Company 

Newark, New Jersey 

AUG 24 1916 



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EEDLEWORK has been a most fascinating: ^rid profitable 
pastime from time immemorial, yet there is seldom a year passes 
that does not brinu; forth several new and interesting books or 
pamphlets — the subject beinjj apparently inexhaustible. In 
l^reparing; this volume the object has been to present a number 
of original designs, simple yet artistic, which can be easily 
reproduced by the average needleworker. 

The working directions are clear and explicit, and by the aid of the numerous 
illustrations of stitches and designs, a practical knowledge of Sewing, Crocheting, 
Embroidery, Knitting, Darning and Tatting, may be readily obtained, even by 
those who have received no previous instruction. 

It is hoped that needleworkers of all ages will have pleasure and satisfaction in 
reproducing the many beautiful and durable articles of fancywork described 
within these pages, and that the book will be of special service to those just 
beginning to sew or to do fancywork. 



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Page .5 



Plain Sewing 



As THE stitches used in plain sewing are the foundation of every kind of needlework, it is well for the girl 
who wishes to learn how to make her own clothes or to embroider, first to master the several stitches used 
in sewing by hand. It is very necessary to have working materials of the best, for with inferior needles that 
bend and snaj), or thread that knots and breaks, it is next to impossible to do good work. Never use a bent needle, 
or one that has a rough, uneven eye which will fray and cut the thread. Medium length needles are the best for 
white work, long ones for dressmaking, and still longer ones, with long eyes, for darning. Needles with long 
eyes, known as crewel needles, should also be used for embroidery. 

For women who have difficulty in threading the ordinary needle, calyx-eyed needles will come as a boon. A 
pressure with the thread on the top of the needle will open the eye and thread the needle. Calyx-eyed and other 
styles of needles suitable for plain sewing and embroidery, are illustrated on page 96 of this book. 

Most beginners make the mistake of using a thread that is too long ; this is especially true in white sewing, 
where a thread eighteen or twenty inches in length is quite sufficient for everything except basting. Do not use 
a knot in starting a thread, except in basting or sewing a seam ; in other instances fasten the thread with two or 
three tiny back stitches. 

It is necessary to learn at least four simple stitches in order to sew well by hand. The first, illustrated at 
Fig. 1, is called a running stitch. Pass the needle in and out of the material in a horizontal direction, always 
making the stitches the same size. Where the material will permit it, several stitches may be taken up on the 
needle at once before pulling it through (see Fig. 1). Running stitch is used for plain seams, for joining light 
materials and for making gathers. 

Back-stitching, shown in the second illustration, is worked from right to left. As will be seen by referring to 
the detail, the stitch on the right side of the material is only half the length of that on the wrong side ; this is 
accomplished by always bringing the needle out at a point beyond the spot where it was last drawn out. Now that 

Page 4 



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almost everyone owns a sewing machine, back-stitching is not used as frequently as in the past, when every- 
thing — no matter what the material — was sewed by hand. Back stitch is frequently used in combination with 

running stitch in sewing a seam. By taking a back stitch 
after every three or four running stitches, the seam is 
less likely to rip. 

A detail of plain hemming is shown at Fig. 3. To 

insure an even hem, draw a thread from the material and 

cut on this line. Fold down the raw edge as narrow as 

possible, then fold the material a second time, sewing 

on the folded edge. Insert the needle and fasten thread 

^' under the fold; then, pointing the needle toward the left 

in a slanting direction, take up a few threads of the material below the fold, bringing the needle out through the 

edge of the fold (see illustration). 

In making rolled hems on lingerie and children's clothes the edge of the material is rolled between the thumb 
and first finger of the right hand, working from right to left. The folded or rolled edge should be less than one- 
sixteenth of an inch wide and the needle must be slipped in so as to go only through the first turning in order 
that no stitches will show on the right side. When lace 
is to be used as a finish it may be sewed on at the same 
time that the hem is rolled, thus saving time and making 
a less clumsy edge. In setting in lace insertion it is 
advisable to hem the edges down to the material; then, 
turning the garment on to the wrong side, cut the mate- 
rial away from beneath the lace, leaving only a narrow 
edge on each side. Then roll and whip these raw edges, 
taking the stitches through the insertion as well as the 
material, thus making the lace doublv firm. 




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Page 5 











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Convent hemming, shown at Fig. 4, used for 
table hnen, is more Hke overhanding than plain 
hemming. A hem is laid as described for plain hem- 
ming, then the damask is again creased down on a 
line with the folded edge. Begin at the left-hand 
corner and take a straight stitch through the two 
folded edges, making the succeeding stitches less 
than one-sixteenth of an inch apart. The thread 

must not be drawn too tight, lest, when the hem is finished and flattened with the thimble, it will not lie 

perfectly fiat. 

Overhanding, shown in Fig. 5, is worked from right to left. This stitch is chiefly used for joining the two 

edges of material together. In overhanding selvage edges, one must be equally careful not to pull the thread too 

tight so that the seam will lie perfectly flat when finished and 

smoothed out. Pieces of lace edging and insertion should always 

be overhanded together, and if done well it should be almost 

impossible to see the joining stitches. 

Overcasting, which is sometimes confused with overhanding, 

is worked in the same way, but the stitches are taken much 

further apart. It is only used to prevent the cut or raw edge 

of a material from fraying, consequently the work may be done 

more or less roughly. 

In making underwear or children's clothes where a fine, nar- 
row seam is desired, work as shown in Fig. 6. This is called a 

French seam and is made as follows: Run the two pieces of 

material together, placing the wrong sides together and the 

Fig. 4 Convent Hemming 




Page 6 



■'•dUEgf- 



edges perfectly even. This completed, trim the edges quite close, then 
fold the material over so that the right sides come together inside 
with the raw edges between. Now run the two pieces of material 
together again, stitching just below the edge of the inside seam (see 
illustration). 

Gathers are made with running stitches of exactly the same 
length set in a straight line. Instead of holding the material fast with 
the left thumb, push it on the needle, taking five or six stitches before 
pulling the needle all the way through. When the gathering thread 
has been run all the way across, drop it and holding the material 
between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, stroke the gathers 
into place. This is done with a coarse needle, stroking it down between 
the gathers, and slipping each gather along under the left thumb after it is stroked. 




Fig. ^ Overhasdinf 





Fig. 6 F^iench Seuni 



Fig. 7 Gathering 



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Page 7 




Mending 



Though few people really enjoy patching or darn- 
ing, the fact remains that most women have it to do, 
to a greater or lesser extent. Few girls are taught 
how to mend, so one is sometimes inclined to think 
that possibly the distaste for repairing of all kinds is 
due largely to a lack of knowledge of the correct way 
to set to work, rather than to an actual dislike for the 
task itself. In patching one may employ one or more 
of the plain sewing stitches, viz : Back-stitching, hem- 
ming or overhanding, but darning employs but one 
stitch and that stitch is for the most part worked in 
but one way. 

Where the material is too torn to stand darning it 
must be cut away and replaced by a new piece. In the 
case of underwear or cotton garments of any kind, it 
is advisable that the new piece should be of a lighter 
weight than the garment itself. Cut the patch by the 
line of the thread and about an inch larger each way 
than the hole it is to cover. Tack in the new piece so 
that its edges overlap the edges of the hole. The back- 
stitching must be d(jne on the garment itself, it being easier then to do the corners neatly. Turn the hem down 
'onto the patch, making a little snip at each corner to prevent puckering, then hem down the folded edge. 



The way to patch 



Page 8 



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n nnm n nn n n 



On woolen goods the edges of the hole should be left uneven and darned 
down to the patch, using thread of the material for the darning, whenever this 
is possible. Do not try to turn in the edges of the patch either, but instead 
darn down smoothly on to the material, taking the stitches quite close 
together. 

When only a few of the warp or woof threads are torn or missing, a darn 
will replace them, providing the surrounding parts are in good condition. 

One of the reasons why so few people darn stockings really well is ])e- 
cause they try to keep the darn small. By so doing the threads are very ajit 
to tear through the thin part of the stocking the first time it is washed and 
then the darn must be done over. If the thread is darned back and forth 
through the worn part surrounding the hole, being sure to leave loops at each 
turning to allow for shrinking in washing, the result will be a smooth, flat 
darn which will wear as long as the rest of the stocking. 

Darning should always be done on the wrong side of the material and 
care must be taken that the thread is of a suitable weight. Thread that is 
too heavy makes an ugly, clumsy darn and one which is apt to pull out, while if the thread be too fine it adds 
considerably to the work. The Clark's O. N. T. 4 Strand Cotton, large balls, comes in white and black only, and 
is particularly recommended because of its softness and superior finish, but one can get small balls of this 4 Strand 
Cotton or small spools of plain finish Darning Cotton in a large range of colors, so there is no excuse for using 
cotton which does not match the material. Two or three strands make a sufficiently heavy thread for stockings 
and thin underwear, while three or even all four threads may be used if the underwear is heavy. 

Most people find that a darning ball or gourd makes stocking darning easier; one may be purchased for a 
few cents from any dealer carrying needlework supplies. For fine materials, such as chififon. lace or batiste, it is 
advisable to baste carefully the torn place over a piece of moderately stiff paper, so that it cannot slip out of place. 




A Stocking Darn 



gnora- 



Page 9 



A Few of the Popular Embroidery Stitches 





Outline Stitch 



Cat-Stitch 



The ability to sew neatly is a distinct advantage to the girl who wishes to learti to embroider, for the mere 
fact of knowing how to place the needle so that the stitches are accurate and evenly spaced seems to make it easy 
to acquire the skill necessary for successful embroidery. 

It is always surprising to the accomplished needlewoman to find that so few fancy stitches are known to the 
self-taught embroiderer, and though books on embroidery in all its forms have been published by the score, one 
sees, in most instances, not more than three or four stitches utilized in working out the "popular" 
designs of today. 

Good materials and adequate utensils are as much a necessity for embroidery as for plain sew- 
ing and one must be sure to have a paper of crewel needles in assorted sizes, sharp pointed scissors 
and a pair of well-padded hoops or rings before beginning to work. While sewing needles may l:>e 
used, the long-eyed crewel needle will be found much more convenient, especially for the stranded 
cotton that is so much used. 

The first-learned and simplest embroidery stitches, such as outlining, chain and feather stitch, 
do not require the use of hoops, in fact they can be worked to better advantage when the material 
is held in the hand. As one advances, however, and begins the more elaborate stitches^French 
knots, seeding, Turkish stitch, etc., etc. — the material should always be placed in the hoop before 
beginning to work. 

Some stitches require part of the work to lie done with the material stretched in the hoop 
and completed with the work held in the hand. Take, for instance, buttonholing or scallo]Mng. 
When the scallops are padded the filling or padding should always be done in the hoop, but the 
buttonhole stitch can be made inuch more accurately and rapidly with the work held in the hand. 
The same directions hold good for satin-stitch or French embroidery, while for eyelet work no 
hoops are needed. Chain Stitcli 




■ yiirw^- 



Page 10 



n urninnnjuinu n uuiamoL 




Turkish Stitch 



Outline Stitch — Fasten thread at the beginning- of hne to be covered ; take up a stitch 
on the line about an eighth of an inch from the starting point. Take up the next stitch 
aljout an eighth of an inch from the hist and continue working in this way until the outline 
is finished. Always keep the thread on the same side of the needle ; if this is not done the 
line will be rough and uneven. 

Chain Stitch — Fasten thread at top of line ; take up a straight stitch, throwing thread 
under the needle and in this way making a loop. Take up another straight stitch, putting 
the needle into the material as close as possible to the spot where the thread was brought 
out; throw thread under needle and pull through. Chain stitch is always worked toward you and when correctly 
done should look like the wrong side of the stitch made with a single thread machine. 

Cat-Stitch — This stitch is worked from left to right. Fasten the thread at the top, take a stitch on the line 
below, jHiinting the needle toward the left; then take a stitch on the top line, next on the lower line and continue 
in this way. When the stitches are taken very close together cat-stitch is' known as Turkish stitch. 

Seeding — This stitch is much used in working up monograms in order to lighten the heavy efifect produced 
by the satin-stitch, but it is equally effective on centerpieces or pillow tops in combinatinn 
with other fancy stitches. 

Seeding is always worked back and forth in rows, the stitches being about three-six- 
teenths of an inch apart. By referring to the illustration it will be seen that the seed effect 
is gained by a series of back stitches, the stitches in the second and succeeding rows being 
taken between those of the row preceding. To be effective the stitches must be uniform in 
size and the rows equal distances apart. 

Buttonhole Stitch- 




Seeding 



-The illustration shows clearly how the buttonholing is done, as well 
as the method of padding or filling so that the scallop will present a raised effect. Where 



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Buttonlioliiif 



padding is not required, the lower line of the scallop may be covered with 
a running stitch which will serve to prevent the material from fraying or 
tearing in laundering. 

If preferred, plain or chain outline may be used instead of the run- 
ning stitch, but the padding must always be worked in the opposite 
direction from the buttonhole stitches. 

French Knots — Fasten the thread firmly, then, holding the needle in 
the right hand, wind the thread around the needle three or four times 
and put needle through to wrong side as near as possilile to the spot 
where it was brought out. Hold the thread or silk with the left hand 

i;ntil it is pulled all the way through ; this prevents the wound thread from slipping 

or knotting. French knots are more easily made when the material is stretched in 

an embroidery hoop or frame, the size of the knot being determined by the number 

of times the thread is wound around the needle. 

Featherstitch — This stitch is used most often on underwear and infants' and 
children's clothes: it is a variation of buttonhole stitch and really simple and easy to 
do, though it takes practice before one can make a straight and even line. 

Begin by fastening the thread at the top of the line, take a short, diagonal but- 
tonhole stitch at the right side, bringing the needle through near the center line. Take 
the next stitch at the left side, somewhat lower down, again bringing the needle out 
at center. Continue working in this way from side to side. A stitch which is very 
feathery in effect is known as V-stitch ; this is most often used on conventional 
designs or figures showing a center vein or mid-rib. Begin by taking a straight stitch 
about three-sixteenths of an inch long from tip of petal into center, bringing needle French Knots 




Page 12 



■'•tJLJh*;- 



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Hemstitching 

Hemstitching — This stitch is used as a finish to scarf ends, square centerpieces or 
(loiHes and on infants' and children's clothes, between groups of tucks and as a finish 
for the lower edge. The bands of hemstitching may be wide or narrow, according to 
the number of threads that are drawn out. The threads must be pulled out of the 
material just below the folded edge of the hem and it is advisable to baste the latter 
firmly, so that it will not slip. Fasten the thread at the left and slip the needle from 
right to left under four or five threads ; draw it through and pull it down and through 
one of two threads of the folded edge. Continue taking stitches in this way until the 
entire hem is hemstitched. 

A more elaborate openwork effect maj' be produced by turning the work around 
and making a second row of stitches on the other edge of the material, taking up the 
same threads as in the first row. This forms little perpendicular bars like the rimgs 
of a ladder and is called ladder hemstitch. 

Serpentine hemstitch, another variation which is pretty and easy to do, is begim 
in the same way as plain or ladder hemstitch. In the second or return row of hem- 
stitching, however, instead of taking up the same group of threads, take half of one 
group and half of the next as one stitch, thus dividing the bars. Continue working in 
this way all across, producing a zigzag or serpentine eiifect. 



out at left side, close to top of straight stitch. Put the 
needle in at the right side directly opposite, bringing 
it through to the right side of material in the center 
of the petal just below the straight stitch, throwing 
the thread under the needle, thus forming a pointed 
or V-stitch ; again put the needle down to the wrong 
side, sewing this V-stitch down with a tiny seed stitch. 
Continue working this way leaving enough space in 
the center between stitches so that the seed stitches 
show plainly. 




Feather Stitching 



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Page 13 



ninuimi nni u i 




French Embroidery 

Showing Monograms of Various Styles 

No matter how many or varied the styles of needlework may be which are presented 
each season to the embroiderer, there never will be, any permanent supplanting of the 
beautiful solid white work known as French embroidery. True, it takes time and much 
])ractice before one can attempt any Init the simplest of patterns, but, on the other hand, 
the piece, once completed, will outwear 
most of the so-called novelties, while 
Irecjucnt laundering serves but to renew its freshness. 

The secret of successful satin-stitch or solid cmljroidery lies 
in the padding or filling. When this is correctly done, with 
stitches that run in the same direction and rows that lie smooth 
and even, the satin-stitch itself will present but few difficulties 
even to a beginner. Padding should always be worked with the 
material stretched smoothly in a frame or hoop or it may be 
basted on a piece of rather stifT paper and the w'ork done while 
on the paper. Satin-stitch is not always padded, but the French 
embroidery designs, when worked out. generally show the figures 
standing out from the linen in more or less high relief. ; , 

The padding or filling may be done in an uneven darning stitch, outlining or chain-stitch, 
acc.rdmg to the shape and size of the space to be filled. In anv case it must be worked so 
that It will he directly opposite or at right angles to the "over and over" or satin-stitch. The 
latter must be worked carefully with stitches that lie close and even but never on top of one 
another. The fault which is most noticeable in the satin-stitch done bv non-professionals, is 
its tendency to break or crack if the work is folded or bent. This will not occur if the padding 
IS firm and the over-and-over stitches are taken sufiRcientlv close together. 





Page 14 



" Tigciiaf ' 



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Most amateur embroiderers make the mistake of using too fine a thread 
for their French embroidery. Clark's O. N. T. Coton a Broder comes in twelve 
difl:erent sizes, running from No. 8 to No. 60, but it is an exceptionally fine 
piece of work- that requires the use of a cotton finer than size 40. For the ordi- 
nary centerpiece or lingerie design, size 25 or 30 will generally be found to l)e 
line enough for the satin-stitch, while 16, 18 or 20 may be used for the filling. 
Alanv needleworkers are satisfied with the white plain finish darning cotton for 
padding, but the same cotton that is used for the embroidery stitches is gen- 
erally preferred. 

Modern designs for French em- 
broidery frequently introduce some 
cipen or eyelet figures as a contrast to 
the heavy solid work, and the effect 
f the two styles of embroidery is usually 



gaiiK'il li\- tlu- ci nnliiiiatii Ml 
pleasing. 

Eyelet work, or Madeira embroidery as it is generally called, is far 
easier to learn to do well than is satin-stitch, for the knack of pulling 
the thread so that the stitches lie snug and close is soon acquired. No 
matter what the size or shape of the eyelet may be, round, oval or bead- 
like, the outline must always be covered with a running stitch. Use the 
same thread that is to be used for the eyelet work, and when the outline 
is completed begin the over-and-over stitch without breaking the thread. 
.Small round eyelets may be punched with a stiletto, but oval e^^elets 
and large round ones must be cut lengthwise and crosswise and again 
between, if necessary, and the edges folded back to the wrong side. Then 
l)egin to work the over-and-over stitches over the double or folded edge, 
trimming oft' the edges of the material on the wrong side when the eyelet 
is completed. Detail illustrations of eyelet work are shown on page 19. 




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Page 15 



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Stem stitch or satin outline is made by cc>vering ordinary outlining with tiny civer-and-over stitches, thus pro- 
ducing a smooth, satiny line. One needs considerable practice before an even, unbroken line can be worked, and for 
that reason comparatively few amateurs attemjit it. except on very fine designs where a ]5lain outline stitch would 
be out of place. 

Scalloping or buttonholing is a stitch which practically everyone knows how to do, and yet there are com- 
paratively few women who can buttonhole a scalloped edge really well. The reason for this lies in the fact that 
buttonholing must be worked quite firm and close, the back of the stitch, in particular, being pulled up tight. 
Where padding is used, care must be taken to narrow it down at the joining of the scallops, so that they will 
still be shapely after the buttonholing is completed. 

It is only after much practice that one can successfully work initials or monograms on underwear or house- 
hold linen, for there is no other form of embroidery in which accuracy of stitchery is so necessary. Initial- 
ing appears to present greater difficulties than do the most elaborate floral figures, and it is generally necessary to 
take a few lessons from an expert before one can be sure of the correct method of working. 

There are two essential points to be observed when selecting a design for a monogram; the first is that the 
combination of letters be graceful and artistic and the second that it be clear and readable. A monogram which is 
almost illegible is valueless. 

In working a monogram it is frequently desirable to vary the stitchery of the different initials, not only t 
emphasize distinctness but also to enhance the artistic eft'ect. The surname initial is always the largest in a 
three-letter monogram, while the other two initials may be of the same size or one letter may be smaller than 
the other. 

The correct size for a letter on a large table cloth or sheet varies from three to four inches, according to 
I)ersonal taste. Napkins may be marked with letters from half an inch to an inch and a half in height, while 
I)illow cases require a letter or monogram one half the size of the one used on the sheet. 

Towels may be marked with two-inch letters placed from one-and-a-half to two inches above the hem. 



o 



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Page 16 



DESIGNS IN SWEDISH WEAVING (See Page 32) 




Page 17 



t^KUbS-sii 1 Ln f..\itjKuiucKi ^3ee rage o/j 




Page 18 




Satin Outline 




The way to cut 
an eyelet 






How to work an eyelet 



Satin Stitch 



Split Satin Stitch 



^, 



French Embroidery — design full size 



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Page 10 




TUmJr. 



Page 20 



Hiiiiiu nil H lun u 



How to Launder Hand Embroidered Articles 



Make a strong: suds in a bowl or 



agate basin, being sure to use a pure C\ /^~^ ^-'^ /->. /y 



white soap and water not too 
Wash the piece or pieces of linen 



o 



rubbing the soiled parts between the \\ ^~\^ ^-^^->. ^-^ /"^'^ ^/'^ /!/ 

hands ; never rub soap on the einbroid- j<-~-^^^ (_J /'~\ \^ ('~\ (^ /'^^ \^ ^^^^^ 

cry. When clean, rinse thoroughly in ^* — "^^ ^^^ v~>' Cj ^-^ (^ — ^ ^^— v rv^^ 

several waters, and should the linen be // (/j /"^ f~J ^_^ \__J \\ 

at all yellow put some blueing in the \y (^ ^-^ y^ . \N. f^ 

final rinsing water. If it is too soft or ^~^ (_y A \_) 

slimsy dip in gum arable water, but ( ] 

never use starch. Do not wring the ^^ 

linen, but instead partially dry by A French Embroidery Design 

squeezing gently between two towels. Iron at once or, if this is not convenient, the linen may be rolled up in a 

towel and set aside for an hour. 

The ironing board should be well padded or a large Turkish towel may be folded twice and laid over the 
board and the linen pressed on that. Lay it face down and cover with a damp cloth unless the linen itself is very 
damp, when the cloth may be used dry. Press from the center outward, first horizontally, with the grain of the 
goods, then perpendicularly. This prevents the centerpiece or doily from stretching or puckering out of shajje. 
When the linen is almost dry the cloth may be removed, and the final pressing done on the wrong side of the 
centerpiece. Should it be impossible to get the linen to lie perfectly flat, try this method : While the centerpiece 
is still damp lay out smoothly on a well padded board. Pin the edge down firmly to the board, using fine steel pins 
so that the holes will not show when the pins are removed. Ptit the first pin in the center of one side, then place 
another directly opposite ; next place one at the center top and bottom, then continue along the edge, taking care 
to keep the grain of the goods perfectly straight. Work in this way all around the edge of the centerpiece leav- 
ing it pinned on the board until thoroughly dry. This is an especially good method to follow for any centerpiece 
having a lace edge or for one that has been stretched out of shape by careless washing. 

Page 21 



Smocking 

Smocking has gained wonderfully in popularity in the last 
year or so, particularly as a decoration for children's frocks. 
Most women have labored under the delusion that smocking 
was much too difficult for the home embroiderer to attempt, 
but this is far from being true. Anyone who can sew neatly, 
can quickly learn how to smock ; it is merely a matter of neat 
and accurate stitchery. 

The mother who makes her children's dresses will find 
smocking a decided factor in reducing their cost and adding to 
their charm, for with smocking as trimming lace and embroid- 
ery become superfluous. 

Smocking can best be described as a form of ornamental 

shirring, the gathered material being worked over with colored 

threads to form a pattern. Tn order that the gathers may be perfectly even the material is first marked with a 

series of dots placed in even rows, at equal distances apart. Many of the prettiest patterns in smocking form 

points, and these may be made of any number of dots, providing that they are always divisible by four. 

All smocking designs may be developed from the one foundation pattern, and if one plans to do much of this 
work, a perforated pattern of the rows of dots, with either powder or a paste and gasoline to transfer it to the 
material, is the most economical method to use. When only a little smocking is to be made the material may be 
marked oft with the help of a ruler and lead pencil or a transfer pattern. 

The following method, which does not call for the use of a dotted pattern, has been recommended by an 
expert in smocking: Thread the sewing machine with fine thread and use a coarse needle, very large stitch and a 
loose tension. Stitch as many rows as are necessary for the smocking, making them the width of the presser 




Page 22 



^gfWTW^^ 




T~T ' "" ' " \ foot apart, by means of which it is a simple matter to keep the rows 

even. When the machine stitching is finished begin to gather, cutting 
the machine stitching at frequent intervals and pulling out the thread a 
little at a time, so that the row of holes will not be lost. A tiny stitch 
should be taken up at each hole and each line of gathering must have a 
separate thread. Begin each row at the right-hand side, fastening it 
firmly so that the knot cannot slip through. Let the end of the thread 
hang loose until all the rows have been gathered, then pull them up 
tight and fasten the ends of the various threads by winding them around 

pins, or by tying them together two and two, in a firm knot. When the smocking is finished the gathering threads 

should be pulled out. 

This same woman also suggests that beginners may practice tlie various stitches on a piece of cross-barred 

dimity, running the gathering threads on the horizontal lines and taking up a stitch at each intersection. The 

quantity of material used in smocking varies greatly, according to the quality of the material and the size of the 

spaces between dots, but the English rule allows twelve inches of material for three inches of smocking. 

It is next to impossible to say that any one thread is the best to use for smocking, for difi'erent materials 

require threads of different weight. Four or si.x strand cotton, a medium- 
weight marking cotton, O. N. T. "Lustre," and Pearl Cotton Nos. 5 and 8 

are all suitable smocking threads, and the choice lies entirely with the 

worker. 

Just here it may be advisable to say a word as to the laundering 

of smocked garments. They may be washed and ironed the same as 

anything else, but afterward the smocked part should be placed face 

down on a Turkish towel and the edges pinned down to keep it flat. 

Dampen and iron crosswise until thoroughly dry. 



ym^ 




"■-- -.--'jirf^ 



WvVvV 



■-Eiag- 



Page 2J 



The first illustration on page 22 shows how the gathering threads should be run in 
and also how the material should look when the gathering threads have been pulled up. 

In the first detail on page 23 three difl:'erent stitches are shown. The first row is 
outline stitch, the second single cable, the third another row of outlining, the fourth 
another single cable stitch, and the last a row of double cable stitch. 

Outline stitch is used in starting nearly all patterns. It is worked from left to right, 
taking the stitches directly over the gathering thread and in this way keeping a per- 
fectly straight line. 

Start the thread on the second pleat on the wrong side of the material ; put the 
needle through to the right side and take one stitch in every pleat, always keeping 
the thread below the needle. 

— -,- - , Single cable is begun and worked just the same as outline stitch, with 

^ ^ this exception — the thread alternates every stitch. In the first stitch the 

^^y I thread is below the needle and in the second stitch it is above the needle ; 

t||i\ I for the third it is again below, and in the fourth above. This alternating of thread is carried on to 
the end of the row. 

Double cable stitch, which is the last stitch in the first group, is — as its name implies — two 
rows of single cable worked close together. Work one row of single cable, keeping it a little above 
the gathering thread line, then work a second row a little below the gathering thread line. Be sm^e 
to reverse the stitches in this second row ; that is, if the first row of single cable began with the 
thread below the needle, begin the second row with the thread above the needle and continue in this 
way all across. 

The first stitch in the second illustration on page 23 is single cable, the second vand3'ke stitch, 
the third the first half of diamond stitch, and the fourth and last, plain outline. The first and last 
stitches have been described above, but both the vandvke and the diamond stitch are new. 





llllUiUUDMiUIIUllUIUDQIIliUllPnaiUUD^ H UiUi^U 



Page 24 



•EUigT 



N uDD Hill uniiiHunininnnDiniuii w 



H n u H n HMH n n n n nn n n H n n H unn H n nm n D n D u u uuu uu uuum nhdt ui mfflnenn mm nH n H h n h n ^ n u n unu n mun H n lu m oi moHunanu n n nmiuD Mtt 

I 

For the former work from right to left. Start the thread, as in outline stitch, bringing the needle up on the 
first pleat on the right side of material, half way between the first and second gathering thread; take a stitch 
through the first two pleats together, then take a second stitch to hold them firm. Next take a stitch over the 
second and third pleats on the line of the second gathering thread, fastening firmly with a second overstitch, same 
as before. Then return to the line of the first stitch — half way between the first and second gathering threads — 
and take the third and fourth pleats together, fastening with the overstitch. Continue working in this way to 
the end of the row. This stitch should always be started midway between two gathering threads and be worked 
down to the line, a space of half the distance between gathering threads separating all the rows. 

Diamond stitch is worked from left to right. Bring the needle up in the first pleat on the right side of the 
material on the first gathering thread. Take a stitch in this first pleat with the thread below the needle, then one 
stitch in the second pleat beside the first stitch, with the thread above the needle; next come down to half way 
between the first and second gathering thread and take one stitch in the third pleat with the thread above and a 
stitch in the fourth pleat beside it with the thread below the needle. Then return to the line of the first and 
second stitches, taking a stitch in the fifth pleat with the thread below and in the sixth with the thread above. 
Continue working back and forth in this way until the line is completed, taking only one stitch in each pleat. The 
second half of the diamond is formed by starting on the second gathering thread and working up to half way 
between the first and second gathering, so that the stitches meet. The second half of the stitch is not shown in 
this illustration, but diamond stitch forms the lower part of the point in the first illustration on page 24. 

In the second illustration on page 24 two decorative stitches which are sometimes used in combination with 
very elaborate smocking are shown. The first little leaf-like sprig is made with three bullion stitches forming each 
leaf and a row of outlining for the stems. Sprigs like these may be used as a finish for the ends of points or 
arranged to form a simple design on the plain material between bands of smocking. 

The way to work the rosette or button shown in the center of the illustration is depicted just belov\', it being 
nothing more than a woven spider-web. Instead of carrying the weaving thread under and over the foundation 
threads, a back stitch is taken over every thread, thus making a raised effect. These little rosettes may be used 
on a smocked dress or blouse in place of buttons. 

MMWlinnHliliimininumuiii uju hi u uiui ui n n u u ujsnu mi uoi ^ muiuiuuuiujjnjiiuu u m m mmiiiiM tp mnpifflMmiiiiiniiiiiimiiiimiiii *r*T T7 ft rft * airMuuiMiMinmnilinmiiiiuiiiiMmiwmMWinniiwnnuniiMnDiiuniimiffiniiM^^ ""i"'^" ' ■""" 

" ' ' Page 25 




Honeycomb smocking, shown in the first illustration on this page, is worked from 
right to left. This is probably the simplest of the many smocking stitches. On ging- 
hams or chambrays honeycomb stitch may be worked without the preliminary gather- 
ing threads, if desired, simply carrj-ing the thread as close and firm as is possible 
between stitches without puckering the material. Begin by bringing the needle through 
to the right side of material at the second plait on the second line of gathering; draw 
the first and second plaits together with two over-and-over stitches, then go up to the 
third plait on the line of the first gathering thread, drawing the second and third plaits 
together in the same way. Return to the second line and take two stitches over the 
third and fourth plaits, being sure, in every instance, to carry the thread between the 
stitches on the wrong side ; in this way nothing but the over-and-over stitches show on 
the right side. It will be apparent after half a dozen stitches have been worked that the 
hist plait of one stitch is the first plait of the next stitch. Continue working in this way 
for as many rows as desired. 
Wave stitch, shown in the second illustration on this same page, is somewhat more 
elaborate in effect, though very little more difficult to work. True, one must be very careful 
that no mistakes are made, no gathers skipped, for one error will throw the entire pattern 
out. Begin on the second plait on the wrong side, bringing your needle up in the first plait 
on the right side of the material. Take a stitch on the next plait, midway between the first 
and second gathering thread, then a stitch in the third plait on the second gathering thread, 
the next stitch on the fourth plait between the second and third gathering and the fifth stitch 
on the next plait on the line of the third gathering. On this down row always throw the 
thread below the needle. Next work back to the first row in the same way, taking each stitch 
on a separate plait but keeping the thread always above the needle. 

The second and third rows are exactly the same, taking the first stitch in each row, one 
line below the preceding row. 

If preferred, the rows may be worked much closer together by simply making the four 
stitches come between the first and second gathering threads. Wave stitch lends itself 
admirably to shading, a very pretty effect being gained if the upper rows are done in light 
shades, gradually letting the colors shade darker a"s the last row is reached. 




Page 26 



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Page 27 



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Page 28 



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n uti lu n u un m in 




Flat-Stitch Embroidery 

This work originated in Sweden and devel- 
oped principally in the northern countries of 
Europe. Because of its highly decorative effect, 
other covuitries also accepted the flat stitch, and 
some of them introduced it even in their national 
embroideries, as, for instance, Hungary. 

For anyone who has had some experience 
with the needle it is not difficult to work the flat 
stitch. It is carried out on the same plan as 
cross-stitch — in other words, the threads of the 
material have to be counted. 

Naturally flat-stitch requires a material in 
which the threads can be readily counted. Scrim, 
coarse-woven linens and square-mesh nets, in 
either fine or coarse mesh, are the fabrics most 
desirable, and the patterns must be developed 
with rather a heavy thread in order to be 
effective. 

Clark's O. N. T. Pearl Cotton in white may 
be used on the finer nets and scrim, being care- 
ful to choose the size best suited to the material. 
On the coarse scrim or loose-woven linen the 
embroidery may be worked in color if desired, 
carrying out the pattern in a single color or in 
a combination of shades which will harmonize 
with the general color scheme. 

Unusually handsome bed spreads may be made of this flat embroidery, and when the material is not wide 
enough for the entire spread the widths may be joined by bands of hand-made Cluny or crocheted lace. 



•CSUSM 



Page 29 



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How to count 



Scrim actual size 




Counting detail for square on page 29 



-*i^:w^' 



Page 30 




These flat-stitch designs can be easily followed and are very attractive for bureau or table scarfs 



--BCligf 



iiniuiiP'^ u u lui nil ut 111 



Page 31 



Swedish Weaving 









fe^." ' .;;j._:;:;2.; •'••■:;; Swedish weaving is a very attractive form of trimming for towels, 

'"' ■# I !^ ~; I |':j table covers, scarfs, etc. It is particularly durable, for all of the drawn 

threads are covered in the weaving and the fancy border thus made is 
quite as strong as if the cross threads had not been pulled out. In 
making a towel it is advisable to choose a linen huckaback of good 
quality, for it is an extravagance to put so much work on poor mate- 
rial. For a full size towel one and one-quarter yards of huck twenty- 
seven inches wide will be required, while for a guest tov^'el a yard of fifteen or sixteen inch huck will be sufficient ; 
both of these measurements allow for hems. Baste the hems before drawing the threads for the weaving. 

Before the weaving is started, baste the drawn portion of the material over a piece of green or black enamel 
cloth so that the weaving will not pucker or draw the linen out of shape. Use a needle with a blunt point and large 
eye, for a pointed needle will continually catch in the loose threads. Never make a knot but instead leave an end 
which can be covered and held firm by the weaving. Fasten this weaving thread by carrying it through the design 
already woven and by this means the work will be exactly alike on both the right and the wrong side. 

Clark's O. N. T. Pearl Cotton should be used for the weaving, which cnay be done in either white or color. 
Be sure to select the size which is suitable for the damask or linen on which the work is to be done. 

The patterns illustrated may be done in any desired 
width, but one must be careful not to have a wide border 
on a narrow towel. For a guest towel a border should 
be from three-quarters to one inch in width, while on a 
large towel it may increase from one and one-half to 
two inches. The same pattern should be worked on both 
ends of the towel, but should this entail too much work. 
one end may be finished with a plain or ladder hemstitch. 
Several attractive designs done in color are shown on 
page 17. 




Page 32 



■^ICligf' 



in fiunuinn/inx 



nin nuimiiM m m 



main n mmmt nmn uimn [iniiiinu m niiiiDiniiiinEi unu nnmn u uit 




Bungalow Set 






Solid Work 




Modern embroidery is growing further 
and further away from the fine, careful 
work done in colored silks which was so 
popular some years ago. The needle- 
workers of today almost invarialjly de- 
mand a design which is conventional 
rather than floral in character, and one 
that will work in a quick, showy way. 

The bungalow set illustrated in color 
on page 35 is an excellent example of 
the new style embroidery, and the colors 
used in developing the design are so soft and pleasing in coloring that they would harmonize with almost any 
surroundings. 

In looking at the motif which is shown in full size on page 34, one might easily think that this design would 
entail considerable work, even though carried out with heavy thread. Such is not the case, however, when the 
stitchery used in developing the design is explained in detail. 

Begin with the large center flower set at the top of the long, straight stem ; this is worked solid, as are also 
the four leaves which grow below it. The two half flowers, set one at each side of the center, have solid center 
portions, but the backgrounds are seeded and the edges outlined. Next the buds are worked, making the little seed 
cups solid, the ])ointed flower parts in French knots and the small center part in seeding. .'\11 of tlie little round 
berries should be buttonholed, taking all of the stitches into the center hole, letting the back of the buttonholing 
finish the outer edge. Satin-stitch the leaves and work the jardiniere solid also. 
The colors used in working out the design are given below: 



Myrtle Green 
Laurel Green 
Light Blue Green 
Pale Green 
Dark Willow Green 



No 



Clark's O. N. T. Embroidery Cotton — Rope Size 



50 

149 

67 

47 
49 



Deep Grape Purple 
Light Yellow 
Light Maize Gold 
Pale Blue 
Cerise Pink 

Black White 

■■ ■■-■■.— .JECHBf—- 



io. 


60 


a 


2 


a 


18 


n 


91 


ti 


28 



Light Fawn 


No. 97 


Dark Brown 


" 7 


China Blue 


" 76 


Violet 


" 44 


Mauve 


" 40 



Page ii 




n m D n n M II li an II D Hn nn I 



Page 34 



II' " m^^lT W ^t *'' 1 un u m D lynniTRninii 



m inn u u u m 



irniiii un Qnn D ui luinu m on 



BUNGALOW SET (See Page 33) 




Page 3S 



FURNISHINGS FOR A BEDROOM (See Page 38) 



Pase 2b 




I u n u umii n fl lun 




Cross-Stitch Embroidery 

For linens, scrims and all evenly woven materials, cross-stitch embroidery 
is especially suitable as a mode of decoration, but it may also be worked on 
other fabrics quite as satisfactorily by means of a piece of rather coarse 
canvas, made especially for cross-stitch. This latter should be basted over 
the material and the cross-stitching done, taking the stitches through both 
canvas and material ; when the design is completed pull out the canvas 
thread by thread. In cross-stitching a design where the canvas is used care 
must be taken that sufficient margin of 
plain canvas is left, at least at one 
side and at either the bottom or top, so 
that the threads may be readily pulled. 
Where the design is large the canvas 
threads may be snipped at intervals in 
order to pull out more easily. 
Cross-stitch is so simple and easy to do that even small children soon 

learn to carry out simple designs of ducks, squirrels or children's figures, 

which are most attractive on towels or bibs. There is but one point to be 

emphasized and remembered: Always cross your stitches in the same way 

throughout the entire pattern. The detail figure shows clearly how this 

is done. 

When worked on a loose-woven fabric cross-stitch may be done with a 

blunt-pointed, long-eyed needle, known as a tapestry needle, using O. N. T. 

Coton a Broder on O. N. T. 6 Strand Cotton. The color plate, page 18, gives 

a variety of motifs and borders which may be put to numerous uses, and 

any design made for filet or filet crochet may be carried out in cross-stitch, 

if desired. An attractive cross-stitch motif 







■ •ECligf ' 



Page 37 



Furnishings for a Bedroom 

A simple rose design was chosen as the motif for this bedroom, and by a clever combination of attractive 
colors and simple stitchery an unusually artistic effect was obtained at a nominal cost. 

A soft, rather loose-woven linen was used for the table cover, scarfs and pincushion, while the curtains, laun- 
dry bag and sofa pillow were made of scrim, of about the same color and weight. /Ml of the embroidery was 
done with Clark's O. N. T. Embroidery Cotton, size Floria. 

The rose motif is shown in actual size on page 39, while on the following page the same motif embroidered, 
and slightly enlarged, is pictured. By referring to the color plate, page 36, it will be seen that the motifs are joined 
by straight lines of outlining and the edges of both the pincushion and pillow are finished with a crocheted cord. 
Directions for making this cord will be found on page 47. The size used on the pillow requires three stitches, 
while the pincushion cord needs but two. 

At the present writing bed spreads made of scrim are very popular, and deservedly so, for they are both inex- 
])ensive and easy to launder — two very desirable features in a bed spread. This rose motif would lend itself 
admirably for use on a spread whether made of plain or hemstitched scrim. Should the latter be selected, be sure 
that the squares formed by the hemstitching are large enough to hold the rose motif, then work a motif in 
every alternate square, leaving the intervening ones plain. Finish the edge of the cover with a hemstitched hem 
or with the chain braid to match the dresser scarf. 

The roses should be done in No. 33 Rose Pink. For the round flowers use No. 91 Pale Blue and No. 44 Violet. 
The large leaves require No. 67 Light Blue Green, and the small dot in the center of the one little flower No. 18 
Light ^laize Gold. The outlines should be black, and the French knots No. 91 Pale Blue. For the eyelets on the 
laundry bag use No. 67 Light Blue Green, and make the cords with O. N. T. Pearl Cotton No. 1130 Dark Olive 
Green No. 5. 

To make the border of the bureau cover, work a chain with the Pearl Cotton mentioned, and lay the chain 
Avrong side up on the small hem around the cover. Then work it on with wide button-hole stitches, always going 
between the single stitches, which will appear as small pearls. 

The method of attaching the chain is shown on page 39. 

iMDi]iBMfflliniinijjauN!«ymiiuiiumiDnMDiwi^ iiumiiiitniMiiiniiniilillMllWil— IWIIMI li m ill w illl M lwi^ ^ m— ^Hlli ^|^gJ_J ^ ^m niwiii muiminiinnnniiiiwuiffliinBfflnmminiiinBijiiiminnraNn im\m mmiuiuii imimiiiiuiiimouiiiuii HiiumniDuiuiiiiiiiminiliimiiHiWPMWiwnmiiimrawiranjiMiDTU 

Page 38 




The line cut on this page gives you the design for the 
bedroom set in the exact size. You can trace this design 
by using a small pointed stick or pencil, and tissue or real 
tracing paper. 

Fasten (with two thumb tacks) on the material where 
the design is to be made, placing a sheet of carbon paper 
as large as pattern underneath the design, and trace 
carefully. 




The design of the bedroom set in natural size 



How to put the chain braid on the dresser scarf 



*^* ^ ^ ^B ^Wf MiMiyiiimiijiioiininMufl nimnw i 



I D VD ut nng n U1 m^nDINT 



Page .39 




o 
o 

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O 



o 



Page 40 



■•ULJtJ- 



111 M J in mil III 



ni mDiiminiKiiiii m ih uiik um 



mun tnniiM uniuiintD di 



iviu iiiu ui uu vuun uu uui u 



uu uu lui tiuu uuu {J uuu uuu uiiiiuiiiiiuiiiiiiuiiiiii 111 u mil d lu iiui uiuuuiiii uuiu lilt iiiiuiiiiiuiiii HI nil uumi HI III II II iiu [iiin ud u n 



Crocheting 
Table of Cotton and Hook Sizes 



Clark's O. N. T. 
Crochet Cotton Nos. 


] 


3 


5 


10 


15 


20 


25 


30 


40 


50 60 


■0 


SO 


100 


Milward's 
Crochet Hooks Nos. 


1 


2 


3 


4 


5 6 7 


8 


9 


10 


11 


12 


13 


14 



St = stitch 


si St = shp stitch 


dc = double crochet 


p = picot 


ch = chain stitch 


sc = single crochet 


tr c = treble crochet 


d = dot 



Abbreviations Used in Crocheting 

vv St = wound stitch 
_ m ^ meshes 

•^ — Means to repeat directions printed between them as many times as stated in each case. 

Crocheting is one of the most agreeable forms of fancy work and because of the simplicity of the four or five 
stitches which are most used, it presents but few difficulties to the beginner. 

There is really but one stitch to learn — the chain; all the others are merely variations made by throwing or 
winding the thread around the needle a certain number of times and catching it into the work. 

In working with cotton thread it is very desirable to learn to do work that is close, firm and even, for it is 
impossible to carry out a crochet design efifectively if the stitchery is loose and uncertain. For this reason it is 
wise to do a little experimenting with the cotton and needle in the sizes suggested in the directions in order to 
determine that the needle really is the correct size for each individual worker. If one is inclined to crochet loose 
it is advisa1)le to select as fine a needle as can be used with the thread, while a comparatively coarse needle may be 
chosen if one's work is very tight. In buying a steel crochet hook be sure to select one that has a smooth, round 
head or hook, otherwise one is almost sure to have difficulty with thread that is pulled and split. 



'■EUEgf 



n m mm ur n 



Page 41 





Fig:. 2 



Chain Stitch (Fig. 1) — Chain stitch is the 
foundation of all crochet work. Begin by twist- 
ing the thread once around the hook to form a 
loop, then -^ catch thread around hook and 
draw through loop : this forms the first loop. 
Repeat from -^ for length desired. 

Slip Stitch (Fig. 2) — The slip stitch is used most often in joining rows together, or in going from one point to 
another invisibly, and sometimes for pattern effects. 

Draw the working thread through the loop indicated in directions, or through chain made previously. Take 
thread over needle and draw with the same motion through loop. Only the upper threads of stitches of previous 
row are to be taken. 

Single Crochet (Fig. 3) — Insert the hook in the foundation chain. and draw thread through, catch thread 
around Wmk and draw through both loops on hook. 

Double Crochet (Fig. 4) — Catch thread around hook, insert in chain, draw thread through; catch thread 
around Imcik, draw through two loops, thread around hook and draw through last twcj loops. Always start a d c 
row with 3 ch in place of the first dc. 

Treble Crochet (Fig. 5) — The treble crochet is made similarly to the double crochet. Start with 4 ch and 
take thread t\\ ice over needle, drawing three times through two. 

Picot (Fig. 6) — Make a chain of three or 
four st as indicated in directions; throw 
cotton over hook, insert hook into first ch st 
made and make a single crochet. ^^^^^^^^ 

Fi"-. 4 





Page 42 



^y^TWWi- 




Fig. 5 



Crochet Dots (Fig. 7) — These dots, also called 
popcorn stitch, are made of double or treble cro- 
chet worked in groups. Instead of drawing the 
thread through the last time with each stitch, leave 
the loops on the needle, and draw through when 
you have made the number of doubles or trebles 
that the pattern demands. 




The Cross Double Crochet (Fig. 8) — This is a pretty stitch for beading on babies' apparel, lingerie, corset 
covers and various other articles on which an insertion for ribbon is desired. 

Fasten thread in the work and start with 6 ch. -^ Take thread twice over the hook, skip 2 ch st of previous 
row, or leave a space accordingly. Draw thread through the loop. Thread over hook, draw through two ; thread 
over hook, skip 2 ch, draw thread through third ch ; thread over hook, draw through two : thread over hook, draw 
through two ; thread over hook, draw through two ; thread over hook, draw through two. 

Ch 2, thread over hook, insert needle taking up the two top threads of loop on crossing (see Fig. 8). Draw 

thread through and 
work off as a dc. Ch 2, 
skip 2 ch of previous 
row, and repeat from-^. 





Fis. 7 



^■JTiWTKMi. 



Page 43 




Page -!4 



Library Set in the New O. N. T. Crochet Embroidery 



The library set illustrated on page 44 is made of golden 
brown burlap, with the crochet motifs and embroidery 
developed in green, brown and black. A Milward's Cro- 
chet Hook, No. 3, was used and Clark's O. N. T. Pearl 
Cotton, No. 3. large balls. The colors selected were 1130 
Dark Olive Green, 1184 Russet, and Black, the combination 
being all that could be desired. 

The Star of O. N. T. Crochet Embroidery— Take the 

green thread. Make a ch of 5 and close with si st for 
a ring. 

1st row — Ch ,\ make a winding stitch with 5 windings 
(see Fig. 9) over the 3rd ch. Ch 3. -A- 1 dc in the ring of 
the 5th ch. A winding stitch around the dc (always take 
5 windings for the whole star). Ch 3. repeat from if 4 
times, having 6 winding stitches in all. Ch 3 and join 
with a si St to the 3rd ch of commencement. 

2n(] row — Ch ,\ 1 winding stitch over the ch of 3. if ch 
3, 1 dc over tlic next 3 ch. A winding stitch around 
the dc. Ch 3, 1 dc on top of the winding stitch of pre- 
vious row. 1 winding stitch over dc, repeat from if 4 
limes, ch ,i and fasten with a si st on 3rd ch of the 
1st row. 

3rd row — Ch 6. 1 dc over the next 3 ch. Ch 3 -^ 1 dc 
on top of the next winding stitcli. Ch 3, 1 dc over the 
next 3 ch. Ch 3 and repeat from if 9 times. Ch 3 and 
join as described before. 

Use a coarse Mihvard Tapestry Needle No. 1, and 
fasten by sewing invisibly up and down through the cro- 
chet work. 

A ch st row of black thread is sewed all around the 
star. Place the ch with the wrong side upward. After 
that the ch with winding stitch balls is embroidered 
around it. 




^yiw:w». 



Page 45 



n 1] n ni unni n ui 



n III nil naBuuniiuiuuoiii 




Chain with Balls in Winding Stitches — Ch 13 and ^ make a winding st (see Fig. 11, on page 47; always use 
7 windings for the stitches) around the last 3 sc. Ch 3, a winding st over the 3rd ch. Ch 3, a winding stitch over 
the 3rd ch ; fasten with a si st on the 10th ch of ch of 13 made at the beginning. Ch 3 and make a winding st 
over the 3rd ch ; fasten with a si st on the bottom and between the two winding stitches made first, where no ch 
space is left between. Ch 3, make winding stitch and fasten in the 10th ch of the beginning. Ch 13 and continue 
from -^ until desired length of ball cliain is accomplished. 

Small Braid with Winding Stitch — A small braid 
with winding stitches is used for the border on the pil- 
low, and it is also used for borders on dresser cov- 
ers, etc. 

Ch 6 -^ make a winding stitch with 5 windings 
around the last 3 ch stitches. Ch 6, repeat from -^ to 
desired length. 

After laying the material flat on a table, place tlic 
stars and borders straiglit on the material. Baste the 
motif firmly in position, using the same thread as the 
piece is worked with threaded in a coarse Milward 
Tapestry Needle. After the motif is fitted, finish the 
embroidery stitches in black, as shown in the ilhis- 
t rat ion. 

Small Border Around Triangle Pillow (Fig. 10) — 
Take tlie green thread and ch 6. 

1st row — 1 dc in the 4th ch st, counting back 2 dc in 
the next ch. Ch 5, turn. 



ill ■ I I 'I I'^mmm'^^H^mmmmmm 
f^*^:-:-:-~'P»»:-:.- ,'-^H■ 
> .1, V »! It H! % «^ % « ^ »• ^ « 



Page 46 



■•ggjjgf 





Fig. 9 



10 



2nd row — -^ 1 dc in the 

third dc of previous row, ch 
2, turn. 

3rd row — 2 dc over the 
last 2 ch of ch of 5 of 1st 
row. 1 dc in the 3rd ch of 
ch of 5 of 1st row. Ch 5, 
turn, repeat from -^ con- 
tinuously. 

Cord Around Pillow (Fig. 9) — 1st row — Ch 4 and join with a si st. 

2nd row— 5 sc in this ring. 

3rd row — 1 sc in each sc of preceding row, picking up the inside thread. 

4th row — 1 sc in each sc, picking up from the outside of work the thread below the top row of sc. Bv work- 
ing in the way described, the top meshes will turn inside and make the padding of cord. Continue same as fourth 
row until there is the length desired. 

Winding Stitch — There is nothing prettier than the winding stitch made in Pearl Cotton. It may be worked 
with threads of varying weight, and used for borders on laces, for picot edgings and finishing of embroideries. 
First, make a foundation of either chain stitches or of double or treble crochet, as the pattern demands. Ch 3 

stitches, -^ thread over needle, draw a loop underneath the ch 

St ; thread over needle, draw loop again as described, and repeat 

from -^ 5 to 9 times, according to directions, then draw thread 

through all the loops at once. Do not work too tight or too 

loose. Hold the ch st with vour left hand straight in working, 

and keep the hook of the needle downward. 

Fig. 11 




•>^^^M 



Page 47 



Two Pretty Crocheted Caps 



The first cap is made in a most efifective diamond pattern in double crochet and pop- 
corn stitch. This latter is worked as follows : Work 7 dc under the ch. then put the 
hook through the top of the first dc and draw the loop through the stitch of the work 
and then through the stitch already on the needle: ch 1 to fasten. The abbreviation pc 
stands for popcorn stitch. The cap illustrated is made with O. N. T. Pearl Cotton No. 8 
and is begun with a ch of 5 joined to form a ring. 
1st row — 24 dc in the ring, join with slip stitch. 

2nd row — 1 pc in first st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 dc, ch 2 -^i 1 pc in next st, ch 2. skip 1, 
dc in next st, ch 2; repeat from i^ around the row. 

3rd row — 1 pc on top of pc of previous row, ch 1, 1 dc in ch, 1 dc on dc. 1 dc in ch. 
ch 1 pc on pc, and repeat all around. 

4th row — Pc on pc, ch 1, 1 dc under the ch, 1 dc on top of each dc of previous row 
and 1 dc under the ch, ch 1, pc on pc ; repeat around the row. 
5th to 10th rows — Same as 4th. 

11th row — 1 pc under the ch in front of the pc of the previous row, ch 2, 1 dc on the 
pc, ch 2, 1 pc under the cli. Ch 2, dc on 2nd dc and 1 dc on each dc following until within 
one st of tlie end (do not work the last stitch), ch 2, pc under the ch, ch 2. 1 dc on the pc. 
ch 2, pc under the ch, ch 2, beginning again at the 2nd st, dc in each st until within 1 st of 
the end, ch 2, pc under the ch, ch 2 and 1 dc on the pc, ch 2, 1 pc under the ch. Ch 2, 
skip 1 dc, put 1 dc on top of all except the last. Ch 2 and pc under the ch ; repeat around 
until 7 sets of 2 pc are made. On the 8th ridge of pc make 1 pc on top of pc of the pre- 
vious row, ch 2 dc on each dc, leaving off one at each end. 

12th row — Pc on pc, ch 2, 1 dc under ch, ch 2, 1 dc under next ch. ch 2, pc on pc. 
ch 2, dc on each dc, except the first and last, pc on pc, ch 2, 1 dc on the ch, ch 2, 1 dc 
under next ch, ch 2, 1 dc under next ch, ch 2, pc in front, ch 2; repeat around the row. 
13th to 15th rows— Same as 12th. 
16th row — Same as 15th until six diamonds have been worked, then work 1 pc under ch in front of pc, 1 pc on top, and 1 pc 
in every other stitch until 3 pc's are made, 1 pc on pc. 3 across the top of the next diamond. 1 pc on pc. ch 2. dc under ch, 
ch 2 and dc under ch : repeat across diamond and pc on pc, ch 2. dc on each dc. dropping first and last, pc on pc. tlien meshes 
as before; repeat until the two diamonds that have the pc clear across are reached: these are left to form the back of the 
bonnet. Turn and work the 17th and 18th rows beginning ami ending with the popcorn stitch to form the final border. 
19th row — Pc in every other mesh. 1 ch between. 20th to 23rd rows — Pc on pc and 1 ch between. 

Edge front of cap with a row of shells made by placing 8 tr c on top of 1st pc, ch 2, 1 sc between first 2 pc's, ch 2. S tr c 
between 2nd and 3rd pc, ch 2, sc, ch 2: repeat across front and around back. 

The second cap is made with O. N. T. Mercerized Crochet No. 10. Begin with ch S, join; into ring put 2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc. 




Page 48 



aacHgf 



pinmunuMuini vunG= 



cli 2 ; repeat until there are S sets of 2 sc in the ring with 2 ch between the sets ; ch 3, skip 
Ist sc and put 1 sc on the next sc, 2 sc under the ch of 2 st, ch 3, 1 sc over the second sc 
and 2 sc under the chain. 

Rows 3 to H inclusive, same as second row. Always skip the first sc and always put 
2 sc under the ch at the end, then ch 3 and repeat all around. There should be 14 sc in 
each cluster on this row. 

12th row — After the 1st ch of 3 is fastened with a sc under the ch of 3 of the pre- 
vious row, ch 3, and begin as before, skipping the first sc in each stitch across the 
section and 2 sc under ch ; then, ch 3, and sc once under same chain; then ch 3 and skip- 
ping the first sc, work across as before; continue same way all around. 

13th row — Same as 12th, except where the chain fastens. After the two sc are put 
under the ch at the end of the section ch 3 and sc under the ch of 3 of the previous row, 
then ch 3 and skipping the first st, sc across the section; 2 sc under ch, ch 3, 1 sc under 
next ch, ch 3 and sc across the section as before. 

Rows 14, 15, 16, 17 — Same as 13th. There should be 19 sc on 17th row in each section. 

I8th row — Ch 3, fasten with sc under ch, ch 3, fasten with sc in 2nd sc, ch 3, fasten in 
5th sc; repeat all around, fastening the 3 ch with sc in every 3rd st along the cluster of 
sc and then under the ch. 

19th row — Same as 18th, except ch is fastened under ch of previous row with sc. 

20th row — Same as 19th. 

21st row — Ch 2 and make a rice stitch under the next ch, then ch 2 and another rice 
stitch in tlie same place. (The rice stitch is made as follows: Wrap the needle and go 
under the ch and catch the thread, draw the thread under the chain and pull the loop 
up about ;4-inch, wrap needle again and repeat 3 times, each time hold the stitches on 
the needle; when ready to fasten there should be 7 loops on the needle; pull through 

all 7 loops, ch 1 to fasten; ch 2 and make another rice st under the same ch ; ch 2, sc under next ch, ch 2 and make 2 rice sts 
with 3 ch between under the next ch ; repeat all around. 

22nd row — Ch 3, sc under ch, ch 3 and sc in next ch ; repeat all around. 

23rd row— This row is done in star stitch worked to within 3 rice sts from end, then ch o, turn, and sc in eye of first star. 

24th row— Ch 4, sc in eye of next star, ch 4, sc in eye of next star; repeat as far as there are stars, turn. 

25th row— Ch 3 and sc under the ch of 4 sts; repeat across. 26th row— Ch 2, sc under the ch of 3; repeat across and ch 3. 

27th row— 1 rice st under 1st ch, 1 rice st under the 3 ch, ch 3, and another rice st under the same ch ; ch 2, 1 rice st under 
the second ch, ch 3 and another rice st in the same place; ch 2, 1 rice st, 3 ch. 1 rice st under the 2 ch loop, ch 2; repeat across. 

28th and 32nd rows— Like 24th. 29th and 33rd rows— Like 25th. 30th and 34th rows— Like 26th. 31st row— Like 27th. 

35th, 37th and 39th rows — Worked in star stitch. 

36th and 38th rows— 1 rice st in eye 1st st. Ch 3 sc in eye of next star; ch 3, 1 rice st in eye of next star; repeat across. 
_40th row— 1 rice st in eye of star, ch 5, 1 rice st in same place, 1 rice st in eye of second star ahead, ch 5 and another rice 
st in same place; repeat around. 

41st row— Under each ch of 5 put 5 sc, ch 3 to form a picot, 5 more sc under same ch ; repeat all around. 




■-EClEg-- 



Page 49 




Towel and Face Cloth 
Crochet Trimmed 



In putting a croclieted edge on a 
Turkish towel or wasli cloth the pret- 
tiest eil'ect is gained by cutting otl 
the plain part ot the towel, leaving 
only enough for a narrow hem. Baste 
this in place and then crochet right 
in the hem. 

Isl row — 1 sc and 1 ch alternately. 
2nd row— Ch 3 if. Skip 1 ch of 
previous row, 1 tr c in 2nd ch, 3 ch 1 
tr c in same ch as the last tr c is 
made. Repeat from if to the end. 

3rd row — if 3 sc over 3 ch of pre- 

lious row. 3 sc over next 3 ch, 5 ch. 

Turn, 1 sc in first of the 1st 3 sc. 

Ch, turn, 4 sc over the first 3 of 5 ch. 

3 ch for a picot, and 3 sc more over 

the same 5 ch, 2 ch in same 3 ch of 

second row as made the first 3, 2 sc in 

next 3 ch of second row and repeat 

from if to tlie end. 

The towel illustrated is marked with 

an initial and further ornamented with tliree crocheted stars 

set below the initial. The latter is not embroidered, but instead 

is covered with a chain stitch cord sewed back and forth in rows 

until the space between the two lines filled (see illustration). 

The ends of the cord are pushed through to the wrong side of 

material and fastened. The stars are worked thus : 

Ch 5 and close with a s! st to form a ring. 

1st row — Ch 6, 1 dc over ring of 5th ch. Vk' 3 ch 1 dc over 

ring. Repeat from if 3 times. Ch 3 and join with a si st to tlie 

3r(l ch of 6 made at the beginning. 

2nd row — Ch 1, 2 sc over ne.xt 3 ch of previous row. 3 ch for 
jiicot, 2 sc over same space of 3 ch. Repeat thus all around, 
"or the edge of the face cloth make, instead of trebles, dc 
only in 2nd row, and in 3rd row make 4 sc and 3 ch for a picot 
alternately. 



I M Hi RJJ n UUU U11M11II unD 



Page so 



yw:wTB^ 



mnii in It) u un u n i 



Working Instructions for Sash Curtain 
Tulip Pattern 

Materials : One ball O. N. T. 6 Cord Mercerized, No. 5, and 
a Milvvard's Crocliet Hoolc, No. 4, is used. 

Start with ch of 42, turn. 

Isl row — .1 dc ill 5tli ch counting backward. 1 m (m repre- 
sents nicsli and consists of 2 ch and 1 dc after skipping 2 cli 
of previous row; this abbreviation is used in the following), 
9 dc in the next 9 ch, 7 m. Ch 5. turn. 

2nd row — 1 dc in next dc of previous row. 12 dc, always 
over 2 ch and 1 on a dc. 1 m, 3 dc, 4 dc. 1 m. Ch 5, turn. 

3rd row — 1 dc on top of next dc, 3 dc. 4 m. 12 dc, 2 m. 
Ch 5, turn. 

4th row — 1 dc in next dc. 12 dc, 4 ni, 3 dc, 1 ni. Ch .^, turn. 

Sth row — 1 dc in next dc, S ch, skip 2 ch and 3 dc of pre- 
vious row, 1 dc in 4th dc, 9 dc, 6 m. Ch 5, turn. 

Sth row — 1 dc in next dc. 4 ni, 9 dc. 5 ch. 2 sc over center of 
Sth ch of previous row. 5 ch. 1 dc in next dc, 1 m. Ch 5, turn. 

7th row — 1 m. 5 ch.^ 2 sc over center of next 3 ch. 5 ch. 
Skip dc of previous row, 9 dc. 1 m. Ch 5, turn. 

Sth row — 1 dc in next dc. 2 m, 5 cli. 2 sc over next 5 ch. 
Ch 5, 2 sc over second 5 ch. CIi 3. I dc in next dc, 1 ni. Ch 
5, turn. 

9th row — 1 dc in Ist dc. Ch 5. 2 sc over next 5 ch. Ch 5, 
3 dc over last 3 of chain of 5. 7 dc more o\ er next meshes, 
1 m. Ch 12, turn. 




-«airaf- 



Page 51 



10th row — 1 dc in 7tli ch of ch of 12, counting backwards. Z m over ch of 12, 2 m over previous row, 6 dc over next 6 dc, 3 dc 
over first 3 ch of 5 of row below., Ch 5, 2 ch over next ch of 5. Ch 5, 1 m. Ch 5, turn. 

llth row — 1 dc in next dc. Ch 5, 3 dc in last 3 ch of ch of 5. 7 dc over next 7 dc 6 m. Ch 5, turn. 

12th row — 1 dc over next dc, 12 dc over next 4 m, 2 rn, 7 dc over next 7 dc, 3 dc, over next 3 dc of ch of 5, 2 m. 

From instructions given the lace can easily be continued from the illustration. The bottom of lace is finished with one 
row, 2 ch, 1 dc, always following the end m of lace. Start the row with S dc. 

The following is worked on the upper part, where the rod goes through the loops : 

3 sc over next 3 ch, ch 12, fasten with a si st in the first of 3 ch. Ch 1, make 20 sc, over ch of 12. if 3 sc in next 3 ch st of 
the m. Repeat from -^ 4 times, ch 12, join with a si st in the 3rd last ch. Cli 1, 20 ch over ring of 12 ch, 3 more sc in the same 
m to build corner, and continue thus. 

The small edge on bottom of the sash curtain is worked on a base of IS ch. Turn, 1 dc in the 9th cli. CIi 2, skip 2 ch, 1 dc 
in the 3rd ch, 2 ch. Skip 2 ch, 1 dc in the 3rd ch. 

2b<1 row— Ch 6, turn, 1 dc on top of next dc. Ch 2, 1 dc on top of ne.xt dc. 

3rd row — The same as 2nd row. 

4lh row — The same as 3rd row. Ch 9, turn 1 dc in next dc. Skip 2 ch. Chain 2, 1 dc in next dc. Skip 2 ch, ch 2 ch, and repeat 
from 2nd row. 

The outer edge is worked with 3 sc in each hole, and 1 p on each corner. Tliis row is worked separately, after the lace is 
finished. 










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Towel End Trimmed with Motifs in Filet Crochet. 
Made with 6 Cord Mercerized Crochet Cotton No. 30. 



Working Detail of 
Filet Motif 



Page 52 



1111 •M^t |B ^ P^ tB* 'uiiimmninnii 



nim It iiB iti m nil 



:n nnunnnumiuiiii niiiiniuin mmii n 



nn u J u uun uuau niiu n tu n on uii 



Attractive Insertions in 
Filet Crochet 

Meicerized Crochet Cotton No. 
60 and a Mihvard Crochet Houk 
No. 13 are used for this exclusive 
pattern. Start with a ch of 52 
stitches. 

The design may easily be fol- 
lowed from the printed diagram. 
The (illiiig of the squared places 
is done in the "Spider Filling." 
which is worked as follows : 

1st row — 1 dc. -^ skip 2 ch, 
1 sc in next dc of previous row, 2 
ch, skip 2 ch and make 1 dc over 
next dc of previous row. Repeat 
from -y^. 

2nd row — -^ 1 dc in the dc of 

previous row, 4 ch, 1 dc in next 
row. Repeat from ^ continu- 
ously. 

4th row — The same as 1st row, 
working the 2 rows alternately, 
but taking care that the ch bows 
all come in one line. 

Any pattern of filet crochet lace 
can be vvorlced with tlie spider filling. 
The mesh filling, however, may be 
worked right tlirough if it is preferred. 




'«!HJkJ-' 



Page S3 



A Pretty Square Yoke in Crochet 

Mercerized Crochet Cotton No. 70. Crochet Hook No. 9. 
This crocheted yoke may be used in a chemise or corset cover and by changing the arrangement of the arm- 
holes it may also be set in a nightgown. The yoke is made in three pieces, the center band — an especially pretty 

fan pattern — beingworked 
iirst, then the upper bor- 
der, and finally the lower 
row of beading. Should it 
seem desirable to have a 
narrower yoke, this lower 
border may be omitted al- 
together and the fan in- 
sertion sewed directly on 
the undergarment. 

1st row — Ch 4 and close 
with 1 si St for a ring- Ch 
4 again and make 1 tr c in 
ring of 4. -^ ch 2, 2 tr c 
in the ring, but do not 
draw thread through the 
last 2 loops of tr c but 
keep on needle and draw 
off with the first tr c. 
Work all pairs of tr c this 
v.'ay. Ch 4 and repeat three 
times, each pair of tr c 
being separated by 2 ch. 

Crocheted Yoke for Chemise 




Page 54 



■^HJOif^ 



n nni imnnm nnnui ui^nni 



2nd row — Lh 4, 1 sc over the next 2 ch. Repeat this 4 times. 

3rd row — Ch 6, turn, 2 tr c in the 3rd ch loop of 4 ch. Repeat from -^ to desired length. 

Of this fan horder work a piece long enough to go across the front and hack and over each shoulder. Work 
this in one piece. The four corners, two in front and two in back, shape by gathering the ch a little and sewing 
the border in shape. Join the beginning and end of border by sewing invisibly. Continue with the outer borders, 
and when completed, join with a si st and fasten threads. 

The Top Border 

For the top or the neck border, work on the side of the fan insertion, where the ch are made. 
1st row — Ch 2, skip 2 ch of previous row and make 1 dc. Repeat this alternately. 
2nd row — Ch 9, skip 2 st of previous row and make a cross dc catch over every ne.xt 2 ch. 
3rd row — Ch, etc., same as 1st row. 

4th row — -^ ch 6, skip 1 ch space and work a sc over the second 2 ch. Repeat alternately from -^ to end. 
5th row — 3 sc over center of 1st loop of 6 ch, 3 p, 3 sc over next loop 
of 6 ch- Repeat from -^ to end. 

To make the corners see detail illustration. 

The Lower Border of Insertion 

1st row — Join the thread in the first loop of 4 ch of fan with a sc, 
■^ ch 6. 1 sc in first loop of 4 ch of next fan. Repeat from -^ to the end 
of row. 

The last rows are similar to the 1st row, 2nd row and 3rd row of 
top border. 

For the lower part of sleeve under the arm, continue the top border all 
around sleeve according to the pattern used. See illustration. 

Corner-Detail of Crocheted Yoke 




n u n mu n nnnnriDnruji n nu u nn n nu n nn n unHnmnmmiiniTiiinnnilnninn m m unm 



IK ^'Ml.'W^l' III 



Page 55 



Filet Crochet Underwear Designs 




Nightgown Yoke in Filet Crochet 



This nightgown yoke, if intended for size 36, may be 
worked with No. 60 Mercerized Crochet Cotton on a scale of 
eight meshes to the inch ; if intended for size 42, work with 
No. 40 Cotton on a scale of seven meshes to the inch. Chang- 
ing the cotton and the size of the mesh in this way enables the 
needlewoman to make the yoke for any desired size. 

Begin the yoke across one side of the lower edge of the 
front, with a chain of 48 stitches, working 45 double crochet 
across the chain. 

Second row — Turn, chain 6, skip 3 chain, 1 double crochet 
in each of tlie others, 1 double crochet in each stitch across the 
row, and at the end add 3 chain stitches with an extra thread, 
on it working 3 double crochet. This row ends toward the 
center of the yoke. On it work according to the pattern until 
16 rows have been made, and at the end of the sixteenth row 
cliain 12 and fasten oft. 




Detail of Half of Cuff to Match Yoke 



Page 56 



uii ^y > ^^ fc^ ^fc ^t * Jii'uiniiiniiiniuii 



ni u itnnDntunn h on u m n a lu u n 



HUinBc n utRnui uivi m mil iiiiniiu nn 



m umnu n u n [Dnu n iiiH 1111 1 nu in u u u n u 



iniiumuu uiJinu 11 uu uu nun num nii n i 



nun ui unrnuniiiiffluniiuguuuuiiiHunnffluniitniuu 



-K- 



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SI 

Work the piece for the second side of 
the yoke in the same way until fifteen 
rows have been made. After the fifteenth 
row chain 5, catch in the end of the 
12-chain with which the first piece was 
finished, turn, skip the last 2 chain made, 
then work the sixteenth row. After that 
the rows are worked across the entire 
yoke. 

When the front is finished work up 
each side for the shoulders, and after the 
shoulders are finished make a chain of 186 
stitches to connect the last rows of the 
shoulders and to form the neck edge of 
the back of the yoke. 

Detail of Nightgown Yoke 



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'JTiWZK^' 



Page 57 



When the yoke is finished, crochet around the 
neck edge as follows : Make 1 treble crochet in 
each of the first 4 stitches, chain 3. skip 3 stitches, 
and repeat around, joining at the end. On the 
outer edge work a row of holes, then on both 
neck and outer edges work a row of single cro- 
chet. After every fifteenth single crochet, chain 5, 
turn, catch in the third single crochet before the 
last one made, turn, in the new loop work 7 sin- 
gle crochet. 

Tlie band for the sleeve should be left open at 
the ends. The rows are worked crosswise, and 
the center part may be made as long as necessary 
for the width of the sleeve. Finish the ends and 
the outer edge with the same holes used for the 
outer edge of the yoke. 

For the corset cover or camisole yoke use 
No. 60 Mercerized Crochet Cotton and do the 
work as nearly as possible on a scale of eight 
meshes to the inch. The rows should be worked 
up and down. Begin along the edge of one front with a chain of 68 stitches on which the first row of 21 holes 
should be worked; after that begin the design. After the design has been completed a sufficient number of plain 
rows should be worked, to make the strip long enough to reach from the center of the front to the center of the 
back, less 31 rows, upon which the first half of the design for the back is worked. Then make the second half 
like the first, finishing the top and end edges with single crochet. 

If preferred the yoke may be closed all around, omitting the two center front rows of holes, and making it 




nimnjiDUiiiHiJiuMiiirai 



Page 58 



•aacHgf" 



somewhat full, with the .fulness 
gathered on a ribbon run through 
the upper row of holes. Or the 
yoke may be closed in front and 
opened in the back by omitting 
the two center back figures. 

Make the shoulder straps by 
working the first row in the 
proper position along the top edge 
of the strip for the yoke. Work 
the eyelets for the ribbon by 
omitting five holes in the row and 
making a chain of 14 stitches 
instead. When the strip is long 
enough, join it to the top of the 
back edge of the 3'oke, and fill the 
side edges with single crochet. 





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Detail of Front and Back of Camisole Yoke 



In joining the crocheted yokes to the body of the nightgown or camisole it is wise to hem them down carefully 
to the nainsook or longcloth, first being sure that the fulness is properly adjusted. When this is done trim the 

surplus material away from the wrong side and roll 
and whip the raw edges, taking the stitches into the 
crocheting as well, thus making the joining doubly 

^ secure. 

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Detail of Shoulder Strap 



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Page 59 




Crocheted Corner and Insertion 



Page 60 



nnne n n u K n n o nn 



■i^'Mi-'Ifcrt;" 



Lace with Corner and Insertion 

This lace is made with Mercerized Crochet No. 40 and Milward's Crochet Hook 
No. 11. The exact corner and the filling of the square are shown in the working 
detail. Make filet crochet, following the sketch as usual. 2 sc for the open and 4 dc 
for a solid square. This lace can also be made in Nos. 15 and 25 for bed spreads, sasli 
curtains, table runners, etc., and in finer numbers, 60 and 80, it will be beautiful for 
centerpieces, fine towels, etc. 

How To Make a Correct Corner in Filet Lace 

When the point is reached on the straight side of lace where the corner begins, 
decrease the squares one in each row following. Turn thread 3 times around needle 
for a double treble, and work of¥. Ch 3, turn, and continue design (see illustration 
on page 60). 

When making a zigzag ending with 4 dc, do not pull thread through the dc the 
second time, but make first all 3 dc half keeping the 5 loops on needle. Then work off, 
first through one and then two by two. Ch 2 and continue pattern. The zigzag line 
ends with 7 dc. Ch 3, turn, 3 dc in the next 3 dc. Ch 5, 1 dc in the second ch, 1 dc in 
the first ch, 3 dc in the side of last dc of last square made of zigzag line. Skip on the 
next corner of 2 ch, 1 dc, turn, 5 dc in the next 5 dc. 

Ch 5, continue pattern to next corner, ch 2. skip on next corner. Ch 2, 1 dc in next 
corner, turn and continue pattern. Continue tlnis, finishing corner until the corners 
are all joined, and work the lace the usual way. 

The picot filling in the squares after having accomplished the two first rows of 
the square in the lace, work as follows; 7 dc for the 3rd row, 1 p, 1 ch, 1 p. Skip 2 dc 
and make 7 dc. 

4th row — 7 dc. 1 p, 1 ch, 1 p. Fasten in 1 ch between 2 p of previous row, 1 p, 1 ch, 
1 p. Skip 3 dc of previous row, .and make 7 dc as usual. Continue thus for two 
more rows. 

7lh row — 7 dc as usual, 3 ch, 1 p. Fasten in 1 ch between 2 p and work thus 3 p 
bows, as usual. 1 p, 3 ch. Skip 3 dc of row below. 7 dc. 

The 8th row will decrease the square and 3 dc are always to be made over the first 
and last 3 ch. Continue to end. (see illustration on page 60). 




Design Detail 



■ -gHaaf - 



Page 61 



Medallion in Irish Lace 



Small squares of baby Irish lace like the one illustrated below are very easy to make and may be put to a number of 
different uses. They are especially effective in underwear, combined with a little French embroidery, and may also be used 
to good advantage on lingerie pillows. 

Medallion Figure — Use O. N. T. Crochet & Tatting Cotton Nos. 30 to 80, and Crochet Flooks Xos. S to 14. 

ROSE. 1st row — Ch 5 and join with si st for a ring . 

2nd row — Ch 6 (the first 3 counting as a dc after joining), 1 dc, 3 ch 5 times. Join with si st. 

3rd row — 1 sc, 3 dc, 1 sc in each space. This will make 6 petals in all. 

4th row — Ch 4. Fasten with sc on back of 2nd row between 2 petals. Ch 4, so between ne.xt 2 petals. Repeat around. 

Sth row — 1 sc, ~ dc, 1 sc over each 4 ch of preceding row. 

6th row — Ch 6, and proceed as in the 4th row. 

7th row — 1 sc, 9 dc, 1 sc in each 6 ch. 
Sth row — SI st on third st in first petal. 

For the beginning of the filling: Ch 6, catch back to third (for picot), 
ch 6, catch back to third, ch 3. This completes what is called a picot loop. 
Join with si st to center of petal 1 picot loop, fasten in end of petal. Con- 
tinue same over each petal, and join the twelfth one where the first one starts. 

2nd row — Make si st to center of next p loop in the back of stitche?. 
Work ijicot loops all around to end of row. Fasten each loop with a si si; 
between the 2 p of each loop of previous row. 

3rd row — Make 3 p loops, •fete ch 6 and fasten in next loop as described 
above. Ch 3, turn, work 12 dc o\er the 6 ch. Ch 4, turn, -^ skip 1 dc of 
previous row, and make a dc in the second dc. Ch 1, repeat from -^ to -^ to 
end of dc. Work a p loop, fasten with sc at the same place wliere the 6 ch 
are fastened. Make 2 more p loops, and repeat from ■^■^. 




4th, 6th and Sth rows are like the second row 
Sth and 7th rows are like the 3rd row. 



Over the dc make 2 p loops. 



Page 62 



■■ajutjf 



Venetian Crochet Insertion 

This insertion is adaptable for bed linen as well as for towels, table linen and many other pnrposes. It is worked in Six 
Cord Mercerized Crochet Cotton No. 30. 

The figures first have to be worked separately on a basis of o ch closed for a ring. Ch 6. 1 tr c in the ring of 3, ch 3. -^ 1 dc 
in the ring of 3, ch 3 and 1 tr c in ring of 3, ch 3. Repeat from -^ twice. Ch 3 and join to the 3 ch of start of 6 ch. Now work 
in each ch 1 sc all around the square, working in each tr c and in the 3 ch of start of 0, 3 sc to form the corners. 

Work sc over the next side of square. Form the first pyramid by decreasing at end of each row 1 st and working forward 
and backward with sc, taking only the back loops of stitches, until 1 sc is left. Work with si st down on left side of triangle 
to the square again. Make the next 3 pyramids the same way, cutting off thread and fastening. It is advisable first to make 
enough of these figures and small squares for the length of insertion desired. 

The small squares are made by making a ch of 10 and working 10 rows of sc, taking only the back loops. 

After all the figures are finished join the thread in the corner of one pyramid, -k ch 12. 1 double treble— that is, the thread 
taken 3 times around needle in the corner of square between lower part of pyramids. Ch 7, 1 dc m top of the double treble, 
ch 4, 1 sc in top of next pyramid. Repeat from if all around, and join on the end. Now crochet over the chain without count- 
ing, putting the sc close together. The corners are formed by working 3 sc into the center or corner sc of preceding row. 
On two sides work 5 dc rows, going forward and backward. 

Sew the little squares as shown in picture between the sides of 5 dc rows. 

After all the lengths of lace are joined, work the top 
and bottom rows. Join on one corner of a large square, 
where one sc row starts, ic Make 1 dc in each st of pre- 
vious row until the 5th row of the 5 sc row is reached. 
Ch 8, 1 tr ^: in corner of small square, ch 3. turn, 1 dc in 
4th ch of 8. ch 6, 1 tr c in corner of small square. Ch 3, 
turn, 1 dc in 3rd ch of 6, 1 sc in corner sc of next large 
sciuare. Repeat from -^ to end of row, and repeat the 
row also for the other side of insertion. 

The two side edges are worked as follows : Ch 6 to 
start with, after having joined thread at the beginning of 
insertion, if Skip 3 sc. 1 sc in the 3rd sc. Ch 1. turn. 4 sc 
over the next 3 ch of ch of 6. Ch 6, and repeat thus from 
■jl^ for both sides of insertion to the ends. 

The upper ch rows are finished ofif on both sides with 
a row of sc, making 4 in each ch space. 




■JBUiBf' 



Page 63 




Page 64 



O. N. T. Winding Leaf Pattern 

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Directions for Making Crocheted Doily 



Crocheted doilies similar to the one illustrated 
herewith are very popular, both for breakfast 
and luncheon sets. As a rule, a set consists of 
six doilies each of plate and tumbler size with 
a medium size centerpiece, say twenty or 
twenty-two inches in diameter. If desired, six 
doilies for bread and butter plates and two oval 
mats for platters may be included, but these 
are not absolutely necessary. 

The doily illustrated measures six inches in 
diameter and is of a suitable size for finger bowl 
or bread and butter plate. In making this pat- 
tern larger for the plate doily or centerpiece, 
first increase the number of plain s c rows 
forming the center, then work on, the same as 
in the doily, only make two or more bands of 
the triple crochet pattern (17th, 18th and 19th 
rows) instead of only one, separating these 
bands by the open work rows same as in pat- 
tern shown. 

If preferred, a linen center may be used in 
place of the plain single crochet stitch, begin- 
ning the doily with the twelfth row, taking the 
stitches right into the hemmed edge of the 
linen. This would eliminate considerable work 
and detract not at all from the attractiveness of 
the design. 

Material required: Clark's O. N. T. Six Cord 
Mercerized Crochet Cotton No. 80, and Mil- 
ward's Needle No. 14. 




»^^^ 



Page 0.1 



C'h 5 and close with a si st for a ring. 

1st row — 1 sc and 2 ch st alternately 10 times in the ring of 5 ch. Repeat this row 10 times, making the sc 
always over the 2 ch of previous row. Increase on every 5th sc by making 2 more sc ; this widening makes the 
work lie flat. 

12th row — Ch 4, 1 dc over the next 2 ch of previous row. -^ 1 ch. 1 dc over next 2 ch, 1 ch. 1 dc in same 2 dc. 
Repeat from ^ all around and close row with si st taken in to 3 ch made at beginning. 

13th row — Ch 4, 3 tr c over next 1 ch of previous row. The trebles are joined on top by slipping off together. 
■^ ch 4. skip 1 sj)ace of 1 ch and make 4 tr c in next space of 1 ch ; repeat from -^ all around. End ^^•ith 4 ch and 
join with a si st. 

14th row — Ch 4, 1 dc. 1 ch alternately 3 times, catching in each ch of previous row, and 3 times skip 1 ch of 
previous rciw. Repeat this all around, ending with 1 ch and joining with a si st. 

15th row — 9 ch, 1 tr c in the second dc of previous row. -^ ch 5. 1 tr c in 2iid dc : repeat from -^ ending with 
5 ch and join with si st to the 4th st of first 9 ch. 

16th row — Ch 4. -^ 1 dc in 2nd ch of previous row, ch 1 ; repeat from -^ all around and join. 

17th row — Ch 4, 3 tr c over next ch of previous row, joined as described in 13th row. 3 ch. 1 sc on top of 

3 tr c. Ch 6, -if skip 2 spaces of previous row, 4 tr c in 3rd space. 3 ch, 1 sc in top of 4 tr c ; ch 6 and repeat from 
■^ all around. Join when finished. 

18th row — Catch with a si st in the 1st 3 ch loop on top of 3 tr c. Ch 4, 3 joined tr c in same loop. -^ Ch 8. 

4 more joined tr c in same loop, 4 joined tr c in next loop on top of next 4 tr c of previous row. Repeat from 
-/f all around and join. 

19th row — In each of the next 4 ch make 1 si st. Ch 4. 3 joined tr c in first 8 ch loop of previous row. -^ Ch 
8, 4 jc lined tr c in next 8 ch loop; repeat from -^ all around. 8 cli and join. 

20th row — Ch 4. -^ Skip 1 ch of previous row, 1 dc in next ch, cli 1 : rejjcat from -^ all around. 

21st row — Work the same as 15th row. 

22nd row — The same as 16th row. 

23rd row — Ch 4, 3 joined tr c over next ch of previous row. -^ Ch 5, skip 2 spaces and make 4 joined tr c in 
3rd space. Repeat from -^ and join. 

24th row — Ch 4. -^ 5 times 2 ch and 1 dc in each 3rd ch of previous row. Ch 6. turn. 1 sc in the next 2nd dc. 
Turn, ch 3 for a p, 1 dc in the loop of 5 ch 4 times, 1 p, 1 dc in same loop, 1 dc in 3rd ch of 22nd row. Repeat from 
■if all around. 

Cut oft thread and fasten invisibly. 

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Page 66 



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Fi!et Crochet Design for Lower Edge of Curtain 

— - — — -lywTw^— ■■ -.--...-.-™ 



Page 57 



The Laundry Bag 



The laundry bag which is illustrated on page 69 is made of a medium-weight ecru linen and trimmed with a 
crocheted lace made with Clark's O. N. T. Crochet Twist, Ecru No. 5. This crochet twist is made in ecru, linen 
and Arabian, as well as white, so that it would be a comparatively simple matter to carry out the same design in a 
color which would match the furnishings of the room in which it is to be used. The edges of the linen are finished 
with a hemstitched hem about an inch wide and the crocheted banding is then whipped firmly to the double edge of 
the material. If desired, a crocheted cord, similar to the one illustrated on [lage 47, may be worked and used in 
place of the ribbon hanger. The bag is 15 inches wide and 36 inches long, finished. The short end will be' found 
convenient for handkerchiefs, collars and fine lingerie, while larger garments may be placed in the long end of 
the bag. 

Materials, Clark's O. N. T. Crochet Twist No. 5. Milward's Crochet Needle No. 4. 
DIRECTIONS: Start with a ch of 40- 

1st row — Turn the work. Skip 9 ch, counting back, and make 1 dc in the 10th ch. Ch 2. 1 dc in the same loop 
as the one made before. Skip 1 ch, 1 dc in the 2nd ch. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same cli. Skip 1 ch. Ch 1, 1 dc in the 
2nd ch. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same loop. Ch 4, skip 3 ch. 1 dc in the 4th ch. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same loop. Ch 5, skip 4. 

1 tr c in the 5th ch. Ch 5, skip 4, 1 dc in the 5th ch. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same loop. Ch 4, 
skip 3, 1 dc in the 4th ch. Ch 2, 1 dc in the same. Ch 1, skip 1 ch, 1 dc in the 2nd ch. 
Skip 1, 1 dc in the same loop. Ch 2, 1 dc in the last loop of row. Ch 5 and turn. 

2nd row — 1 dc over the next 2 ch between the 2 dc of previous row. Ch 2. 1 dc 
over the same ch. 1 dc over the next 2 ch. Ch 2, 1 dc over the same ch. Ch 4, 1 dc 
in center of the next 4 dc of previous row. Ch 2, 1 dc over same space. Ch 4, 3 dc in 
the last 3 ch of 1st ch of 5 of previous row, 1 dc in the top of the tr c, 3 dc over the 
ne.xt 3 ch. Ch 4, 1 dc in center of next 4 ch. Ch 2, 1 dc in same space. Ch 4, then 
repeat the border as described before and continue it on both sides. The directions 
are mentioned further from 1 to the last dc of border. 

3rd row — Border, ch 2. 1 dc, 1 ch and 1 dc over the center of next 4 ch. Ch 4, 3 dc 
in the last 3 ch, ne.xt ch of 4 ch, 7 dc in the next 7 dc and 3 dc in the next 3 ch. Ch 4, 
1 dc in center of next 4 ch. Ch 2, 1 dc in same space, ch 2, border. 
4th row — The same as 2nd row. 

5th row — The same as the 1st row, only worked according to pattern. Commence 
- tttiti^i)^"' : u^ from 2nd row again, and continue the rows thus until the desired length is obtained. 







Page 08 



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Page 69 



ly udii uu DUduunmiiHiuiiiiuiai 



Crocheted Cap and Jacket For a Baby 



Size from 1 to 6 Months 

MATERIALS REQUIRED FOR JACKET— 4 Large Balls or 8 Small Balls Clark's O. N. T. 4 Strand Cotton, 1 Medium Ball 

Clark's O. N. T. Pearl Cotton, No. 5. Color as Desired. 

The best results will be obtained if the work is done with a fine bone needle. 

The shaping of the jacket is very simple, as it is put together with 5 straight, square pieces. 

Start with the back and ch 7j, turn, and work back in each ch 1 dc. 

First shell stitch row — Ch 3, turn. 4 dc in 4th ch counted back, -j^ ski]) 1 dc of previous row. 1 sc in second dc. 

Skip the third dc and make 5 dc in fourth dc. Now 
repeat from -^ to end of row. 

Second shell stitch row — Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in last sc 
of previous row. 1 sc in 3rd dc of previous row. -^ 5 dc 
in next sc. Repeat from -i^. 1 sc in 3rd dc of next shell. 
Repeat thus from -^ sh st to end of row. End row 
with 3 dc, and start next row with 5 dc. 

Finish thus the back for 8-inch length. Then cut 
citl thread long enough to thread in an embroidery 
needle, and fasten by sewing invisibly through the 
crochet. For the two front pieces ch a foundation of 
40 loops, and work just like the back — 8 inches long. 
Ch 50 for the two sleeves. Work like the other pieces, 
making them 6 inches long. When all pieces are fin- 
ished, lay the front pieces on top of the back piece, 
sewing them together on the wrong side 4 inches from 
the bottom with invisible overcasting stitches. The 
tipper open parts are the armholes. For the shoulder 
part sew two and one-half inches of the last shell 
stitch rows together. 




Page 70 



■BClig; 



Now sew together the sides of the two sleeve pieces, and insert sleeves in the armholes. Then proceed with 
the border around the jacket and for the neck. 

join the colored Pearl Cotton in bottom corner. Ch 3, 1 dc in next ch of start. -^ skip 2 ch, make 2 ch 
and work 2 dc in next 2 ch. Repeat from -^ to end of row. Cut off thread and fasten. 

Join white 4 Strand thread. Ch 3, 1 dc in each st of previous row to end of row. When last dc is made 
ch 9. Turn around front corner and continue with 2 ch, skip 1 dc and make 1 dc in side of crochet. Ch 2 and con- 
tinue the same along side of front piece up to the neck. Ch 3, 1 dc in same space where last dc is made. Turn 
around for neck. -^^ 3 dc in next 3 st. Do not pull thread through twice, but leave last 2 loops on needle until 
there are 6 loops. Pull through at once and repeat from -^ all around neck. This row will narrow the neck to fit. 

Now work down the other side of front and work along the bottom until the 
begiiming of row of 9 ch. End with 2 ch and join with a si st to the 3rd ch of begin- 
ning. Cut ofif thread and fasten. 

Join the colored Pearl Cotton over the 6 ch left from start. Ch 3, 1 dc in same 
space, ch 1,2 dc in same space, ch 1,2 dc in same space,! ch and 2 dc over each next 
space. Crochet loosely all around jacket. When all around, join t(i 3rd ch from 
start. \\^ork 6 dc and 2 ch in one corner space of neck and bottom corner as 
described. Cut thread and fasten. f 

Join the 4 Strand thread in first 2 ch of bottom corner. Ch 1, 2 dc in next 
space of 2 ch. -^ 1 p (p, that is, ch 3, 1 so in first of 3 ch) 2 dc in same space, 1 sc 
over next 1 ch, 2 dc over next 2 ch. Repeat from -^ to end of front. For the neck, 
instead of a p, make 2 ch only to end of neck. Ch 3. turn, go back on neck row the 
same Avay as last row made. Turn, make a p again and work back once more, but 
the third time make the p between the 4 dc all along the row. Now work down the 
other front side, and join on the bottom as described. Cut thread and fasten. Work 
all the border rows of bottom of jacket around the sleeves. 

This jacket may also be worked of Pearl Cotton No. 5 only. 

MATERIALS REQUIRED FOR CAP— 2 Large Balls or 4 Small Balls Clark's O. N.T. 4 Strand Cotton, 
1 Medium Ball Clark's O. N. T. Pearl Cotton No. 5, in Desired Color. 

Ch 4 and close with a si st for a ring. 

1st row — Ch 3, 14 dc in ring of 4 ch. Join with si st to 3rd ch of start. 




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Page 71 



2nd row — Ch 5. -^ 1 dc in next dc of previous row, ch 1 and repeat from -^ all around. Join as described. 

3rd row — Ch 3, 2 dc over next ch, 1 dc in next dc. Leave the white 4 Strand thread hanging, and join 
the colored Pearl Cotton. 

4th row — Ch 4. -^ 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, repeat all around and join. Cut off thread and fasten as described. 

5th row — Ch, 3 with the white 4 Strand, 1 dc over next 1 ch, 2 dc in next 2 ch. Repeat all around and join. 

l-'nmi 6th to 11th row inclusive, make a sh St. See the description. 

12th row — Work sh st until 4 sh st are left; then turn and make sh st back. Work sh st from loth to 21st 
row going forward and backward, thus building the front part of cap. 

Border of Cap: 1st row — Ch 3. skip 1 st of previous row and make 1 ch. 1 dc in 2nd st of previous row. Work 
thus until ciirner and fcirm corner by making 3 dc in one space alternately with 1 ch. When all around cap, join 
as usual. Cut thread, fasten, and join the colored Pearl Cotton. 

2nd row — Start with 3 ch, 1 dc over next ch. Ch 1. 2 dc over next ch, continue all around. Work in corners 
4 dc separated by 2 ch. When all around join and cut thread. Join 4 Strand thread. 

3rd row — Ch 6, skip 2 dc, ch 2, 1 dc over 1 ch of previous row. On end of row join as described. Ch 3. 

4th to 9th rows, inclusive, are to be worked only on the front part of cap. 

4th row — 1 dc in each st of previous row. On end of row ch 6 and turn. 

5th row — Skip 2 dc of previous row, ch 2, 1 dc in 3rd dc. 

6th row — The same as the 4th row. 

7th row — The same as the 5th row. Cut thread and fasten. 

8th row — Join the colored Pearl Cotton. Ch 3, 1 dc over next 2 ch. Ch 1, 2 dc over next 2 ch of previous 
row. C>n end of row cut thread and fasten. 

Join the 4 Strand thread. Ch 5. 

9th row — I dc over next ch of previous row. Ch 2, 1 dc over next ch. Continue to end of row. 

10th row — To work all around, turn half to neck part of cap and work over side of front part ; 2 dc over the 
next colored dc, 1 p, 2 dc over same dc, 1 so over next white dc, 2 dc over next dc. 1 p, 2 dc over same dc, 1 sc 
over next dc, 4 dc and 1 p over next dc, 1 sc over next 5 ch. -^ 4 dc, 1 p over next 2 ch, 1 sc over next 2 ch. 
Continue from -^f all around cap. Work the other side of border according to description for first side. Join, 
cut thread and fasten as described in beginning of description. 

This cap may also be worked with Pearl Cotton No. 5 only. 

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Page 72 



u nunimfRmn miD 



Narrow Crocheted Edgings for Children's Lingerie 




No other kind of lace is so durable as that which 
is hand crocheted, and for that reason no other 
lace is so entirely satisfactory for use on children's 
clothes. Many busy mothers feel that it is a waste 

of time to make elaborate insertions and edges to mi 

use on little garments which have to withstand such 

constant wear and tear, but narrow edges, such as are illustrated on this page, may be worked up so rapidly that 
this objection does not hold good. 

Any one of these edges may be used to good advantage, not only on underwear and frocks for little children, 
but also on babies caps, pique coats, lingerie pillows and pique carriage covers. 

The size of the thread to be used for the work must depend, to a great extent, on the material on which it 
is to be used, for a much finer thread must be chosen for lace to go on a batiste or linen dress than on an edge 
which is to finish a garment made of pique. 

A most attractive insertion and edge to match are shown in the last illustration on page 74. Begin with 
a chain of 15 and join the last and first st by a si st. Ch 3, -^ turn, make 16 dc in ring of 15 ch. Ch 1, turn work. 
2 sc in the next 2 dc of previous row. Ch 3, join with so in the first ch for a p. Continue with sc to end of row. 
Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next 3 sc, 1 p as described before, 3 sc in next 3 sc, 1 p and .3 sc. Ch 9, turn, fasten in the mid- 
dle sc between the two p with sc, ch 3 and begin from -^ again. Continue working these fan figures one after the 
other until the desired length is completed, after which the little chain border may be started. 

Ch 10 and fasten in one corner of next fan. Ch 7 
and fasten in corner of next fan. Work this all 
around the border, making on the point of each cor- 
ner 8 to 10 ch and 3 sc in the 3 center stitches of fan. 
thus forming the edge. 

For the last row ch 4. skip 1 ch. 1 dc in 2nd ch. 
No.2 -^ Ch 1, 1 dc, repeat from -^ all around insertion. 

For the corners work twice 2 dc in one ch. When 




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Page 7^ 




insertion. 3 sc in next 3 
When linished, ch 5. 



all around join the last ch to the 3rd of first 3 ch 
made with si St. Cut off thread and fasten by sew- 
ing inx-isilil}' with a sewing needle. 

For the Edge — Ch 12 and join with 1 si st to a 

ring. -^ Ch 3, turn, make 9 do in the ring of 12 ; 

ch 1, work 1 sc in each dc. Ch 1, turn, make 2 sc in 

next 2 sc. Ch 3 and join for a p as described in 

Ch 9, turn, and continue from -^ for length desired. 

Ch 1, 1 dc in center of side of next dc. Ch 1, skip 1 ch, 1 dc in 



5c. 1 p. 3 sc in next 3 sc. 
V^ 1 dc in side of next sc. 
next ch. Ch 1. skip 1 ch, 1 dc in next ch. Repeat from "^ to the end. Cut off thread and fasten. 

For the little edge shown in the first illustration on page 7Z, start with a ch of 9 and turn. 

1st row — Counting back, make a dc in the 5th ch, skip 2 ch, and make a dc with 2 ch between in the 3rd ch. 

2nd row — -^ Ch 5, turn, one dc over the next 2 ch of previous row, 2 dc with 2 ch between over the next 
2 ch. Ch 3, 1 sc over the 3 ch left of first row. 1 ch, turn. 

3rd row — 3 times 2 sc alternately with 2 ch for a p over the next 3 ch. 

4th row — Ch 5, one dc over the next 2 ch of previous row. 2 dc with 2 ch between over the next 2 ch. 
Repeat" from -^ to desired length. 

Begin the little pointed edge pictured in the second illustration on page 72> with 11 chain and turn. 

1st row — -^ 1 sc in the 2nd ch counted backwards. 3 dc in the next 3 ch, skip 2 ch of start, ch 2, 1 dc in 3rd ch. 
Skip 2 ch, ch 2, 1 dc in 3rd ch. 

2nd row — Ch 5, turn, 1 dc in next dc of previous row. Ch 2, 1 dc in next dc of previous row, ch 5, turn and 
repeat from -^ to desired length. 

The third design illustrated above combines a beading with the little scallop and is begun 
w-itli 12 ch, turn. 

1st row — Counting back, make 2 dc over the 7th and 8th ch of previous row. Ch 2, skip 
2 ch of previous row and make 1 dc in first st made, 

2nd row — Ch 3, turn, 2 dc over the next 2 dc, Ch 2, 1 dc in 3rd next ch, 

3rd row — Ch 5, turn, 2 dc over next 2 dc. Ch 2, 1 dc in 3rd ch, 4 times 2 ch and 1 dc 
over next 3 ch on side of next mesh. For the scallop, ch 2, 1 sc in the following mesh. -^ 3 



ch, turn, 1 sc over next 2 ch. Repeat from -^ 4 times. Ch 3, 1 dc in next dc. Ch 
next 2 dc, ch 2, 1 dc in 3rd ch of turn. Repeat from 2nd row to length desired. 



2, 2 




No, 4 



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Page 74 



n UDiiDu m m HI 



■-ECHg? 



Tatting 



Tatting is n kind of lace-work made with a shuttle which originated probably from a desire to reproduce the 
gimp or knotted laces of the sixteentli century by a simpler and easier method. 

In the eighteenth century, when the vogue of tatting was at its height, it was used not only on clothes and 
household linens, but also as a finish for upholstery or curtains, in place of gimp. 

The best material to use for tatting is Clark's O. N. T. Crochet & Tatting Cotton, as it is just suftk-iently 
twisted for making a nice, smooth braid. As tatting is often finished ofif with a few rows of crochet, or crochet 
put in the middle of insertion, it is well to use a size coarser for the crochet than for tatting. Thus: if No. 80 
were used for the tatting. No. 70 should be chosen for the crochet. O. N. T. Crochet & Tatting Cotton comes in 
six sizes, 30 to 80. Clark's O. N. T. Six Cord Mercerized Crochet Cotton can also be used with splendid results. 
This is obtainable in fourteen sizes, 1 to 100. For curtains and hangings tatting is an effective edging when 
worked with coarser thread. 

Tatting shuttles are made of two double-pointed oval blades of a hard substance, such as bone, mother of 
pearl, tortoise-shell or hard wood. The shape of the shuttle is quite important for quick and perfect execution of 
this work. It should not be more than 2^4 inches long and ^ inch wide. With two-shuttle work you must be 
sure that the blades are sufficiently close together at the end to prevent the thread from slipping out too (|uickly. 

The hole in the center piece 

between the blades should be 

large enough to admit and 

hold the thread for winding 

on the shuttles. Do not wind 

too much thread on the shut- 
tle, else the blades will gape 

apart and thus be awkward 

to use. 

For rings only one shuttle 

is necessary, but for scallops 

two shuttles are employed. 
The drawings give you the 

position of the hands and the 

working of the shuttles. 





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Page 7.5 



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Fisr. 3 



Fitr. 6 



Various positions of 
Hands and Shuttles 





Fijr. 5 




ABBREVIATIONS 




FOR TATTING 




Half knot 


= h 


kn 


D()ul)le knot 


= d 


kn 


Picot 


= P 




Rincr 


= r 





Page 76 



■■ECligf 



Fi.!J. 4 



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nun fl n u im [in 



Directions for Tatting 

First of all, try to remember from the very beginning that the right hand, as soon as the shuttle has passed 
the loop, should stay in position, motionless. 

After winding sufficient thread on shuttle, take the end of the thread in left hand, between thumb and fore- 
finger. Take shuttle in right hand and hold the thread over the third and fourth fingers of left hand, bringing it 
back to the thumb, crossing the threads under the finger (see Figs. 1, 2 and 3, on pages 75 and 76). 

Pass the shuttle between the first and third fingers, and bring it out behind the loop (Fig. 2, page 75). 

Now comes the only trick in tatting. As soon as you have passed the loop with shuttle, give a quick jerk 
with the first finger of left hand, leaving the thread sufficiently loose over the same finger, that it may twist to a 
knot, and thus build the loop with the thread on left hand. Do not move the right hand, and hold the thread tight. 
The right hand may be resting on the table (Fig. 4). 

When the loop is made, it is the first part of the double knot, a half knot. The second part of the loop is 
formed as follows : Pass shuttle from left to right between the first and third fingers through the extended loop. 
Fig. 5 shows the first motion before the jerk. Fig. 6 shows the position of threads after the jerk. The right hand 
seizes the shuttle in front of the empty loop and extends the thread. Now jerk the thread for the loop the same 
way as you did in the first part of the knot. 

It is well to practice making this knot until one can do it perfectly before starting any work. 

If the thread in the ring will not pull, making the ring smaller or larger, the manipulation is wrong. 




Fig. 1 



Fig. 2 



■yw:w»' 



Page 77 



Tatted Lace for Centerpiece 




This lace may be done in Nos. 15-80 of 6 
Cord Mercerized Crochet Cotton, according to 
tlie quality of cloth to be used. It is designed 
especially for luncheon sets or centerpieces. 
The center design of lace is to be worked first. 

Knot 2 shuttles together, and start with 
one for a ring. 

■ykr r. 4 d kn, 1 p, twice 3 d kn, 1 p. End 
with 4 d kn and close ring. This is the ring 
used for the whole center design, and the 
description will not be repeated. 

Take up the other shuttle and turn the 
work. Work a bow of 3 d kn, 1 p, repeat twice 
and make 3 d kn. Turn work and make a ring. 
Join the first p with the last p of last ring 
made. Repeat now from ^. 

This repeated three more times will ac- 
complish the first scallop of the center design. 

Now start for another bow from first -Ar over again and join the first and second p of next bow 
with the second and third p of last bow. Then finish first bow as usual, and continue to the 
desired length of lace. 

Inner Edge of the Lace — Work with two shuttles, and fasten them on first p of first ring. 
Begin with a bow of two shuttles. 5 d kn, 1 p, S d kn. This will be the bow for the inner edge 
and the description will not be repeated. 

Turn the work and make a ring, -ff 3 d kn.join in top p of next ring. Repeat from V^ four 
times and close ring with 3 d kn. Turn the work and make a bow with 2 shuttles. Fasten in 
p of next ring, make another bow and fasten in first p of next ring. Repeat from first ■A' con- 
tinuously initil end of lace. 

Lower Scalloped Edge of Lace— Fasten 2 shuttles in the p left on first bow. if 2 d kn. 1 p. 2 d kn. Join in the 
of next bow. 2 d kn, 1 p. 2 d kn. 1 p, 2 d kn. Turn work and make a ring. 2 d kn, join in last p of next bow of 
row, 2 d kn, 1 p, 2 d kn, 1 p. 2 d kn, turn work and take up second shuttle for a bow of 2 d kn, 1 p, 2 d kn, 1 p. 2 d 
d kn, 1 p, 2 d kn. Turn work for a ring. 2 d kn, join in tliird p of previously made ring, 2 d kn, join in second p of s 

2 d kn. Join in first p of ne.xt now of first row. 2 d kn. Close ring. 

Turn work and make a bow of 3 times 2 d kn alternately with 2 p. Join in next p of same bow as joined before. . 

3 d kn. Join in first p of following and last bow of center design. 2 d kn, 1 p, 2 d kn, 1 p, 2 d kn. Join in last p of 
bow. Now repeat from -^ to end of row. 



second p 

previous 

kn. 1 p. 2 

ame ring, 

d kn. 1 p, 
following 



•■yiJTw^ 



Page 78 



«««»■■■ ■■■•■tav««ff«** 



.v«vj«fBiaa»«ia«ai«B«5 



Oval Centerpiece With Tatted Edge 




BSj^BPHHSSSSBH-H^^^^ Ihe oval centerpiece illustrated on this page 

measures nine inches in width and eighteen 
inches in length, not counting the tatted edge. 
The embroidered design is both unusual and 
effective, and, considering the space covered, 
there is very little work. The center one of the 
three interlaced circles is formed of satin-stitch 
dots placed about three-eighths of an inch ajsart, 
while the other two circles are made by working 
a row of Turkish stitch on the wrong side, leav- 
ing a space about one-eighth of an inch wide 
between the upper and lower row of stitches. 
On the right side this Turkish stitch shows up 
as two rows of tiny back stitches with the plain 

linen between. The background of the two oblong motifs which 

complete the design is filled with seeding and on this the flowers, 

worked in split and plain satin-stitch, stand out in bold relief. 

The edge of the centerpiece is finished with plain rings of tatting 

joined to the edge of the linen with a crocheted beading. 

The little luncheon napkin, shown on the same page, is sim- 
plicity itself and yet because of this very simplicity, it has a 

certain charm and style which more elaborate designs frequently 

lack. It measures eleven inches square, with each corner cut in 

about half an inch at a distance of two inches from the corner 

(see illustration). In each of the four corners is set a little 

wreath, slightly oval, the length measuring a bit more than the 




A Unique Design for a Lunclieon Napkin 



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Page 79 




width and worked in an effective combination of satin-stitch and 
eyelet work. If desired, a tiny initial may be placed in one of the 
wreaths. The tatted edge is similar to the one on the oval cen- 
terpiece, only that it is joined directly to the buttonholed edge of 
the linen, with no crocheting between. 

All of the embroidery on these two articles is done with the 
soft, lustrous Floss Embroidery Cotton, which comes in long 
skeins Nos. 6 to 40, while the tatting edges use Clark's Six Cord 
Crochet Cotton No. 70. 

Housewives who are in need of serviceable breakfast or 
luncheon sets cannot do better than to make their centerpieces 
and doilies out of a coarse linen, trimming them with tatting. 
The directions for the centerpiece illustrated on this page follow 
and directions are also given for tatting for the edge of the 
doilies to match. 

All of the wheels in the centerpiece are made in the same 
way, the effective design being obtained by simply joining them 
to form a pattern. Begin the center ring with 8 ds with a p 
between each 2 ds ; draw up. Around this center ring make 

eight outer rings thus : 4 ds, 1 p. 2 ds, 1 p, 2 ds. 1 p, 2 ds, 1 p, 2 ds, 1 p, 4 ds, draw up and fasten in picot of center 

ring. In working the second and succeeding rings the picot after the 4 ds must be omitted and the stitch fastened 

into the fifth picot of the preceding ring. 

The doilies to match this centerpiece may be finished around the edge with half-wheels of tatting made with 

the same thread as was used for the centerpiece. 

Make the center ring of 18 ds with a p between each two stitches; draw up. Then begin the first of the five 



An Effective Centerpiece Made With Tatted Wlieels 



ra u ™niM pinwrarainitn n u 



Page 80 



■«acngf 



fi nuti inaui nfl u 



outer rings by making 4 ds, 1 p, 2 ds, 1 p, 2 ds, 1 p, 2 ds, 1 p, 2 ds, 1 p, 4 ds ; draw up and fasten in picot on center 
ring. Make four more rings like this first one, only, after the first 4 ds have been made, omit the picot and instead 
fasten into the fifth picot of preceding ring. The half-wheels are joined together by omitting the third picot on 
the first outer ring of the second and succeeding half-wheels and fastening the stitch into the center picot of the 
fifth ring in the preceding half-wheel. 

The very attractive collar and cuff set illus- 
trated on this page, is edged with the little loops or 
wheels of tatting, while a simple motif fills in each 
corner of the collar. 

A set like this is particularly suitable for use 
on children's coats or dresses and a very effective 
trimming for frocks of linen or chambray may be 
made by finishing the white collars and cuft's with 
the tatting edge, done with thread the same color 
as the dress. 

In sewing the tatting on the collar, it is wise 
to first roll and whip the edge of the linen or 
batiste, afterward overhanding the loops of the tat- 
ting firmly to the edge of the material. Care must be taken, however, to see that the stitches are not drawn too 
tight, else the tatting will pucker and draw when the little dress is washed. 

The tatting is done with one shuttle, first making the star in the center of the motif thus: Make 5 rings of 
4 times 5 d kn alternated with 3 picots. Join the first and last ring together by means of the first and last picot ; 
cut thread. -^ Knot thread on the joined picot between two rings. Make 5 d kn, join in the top picot of wheel 
and make three rings exactly like those made in the center star ; cut thread and fasten. Repeat from -^ all 
around center star, making five three-petal groups in all. 

For the corners of the cuits only the center star of the motif was used (see illustration). 




Collar and Cuff Set Trimmed With Tatting 



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Page 81 



II u uiu mosiMiiDiuiDiiui i imiuiini u 



unntiRnin luuiniiu mm u 



luuiuu uuuimi uuuuuiimu 




Knitting 



Fig. 1 



Knitting is one of the oldest forms of needlework and is probably adaptable to 
more varied uses than any of the other crafts. One may use from two to five 
needles in making a knitted garment, and these needles may be of bone, steel, 
amber or wood, according to the thread one intends to use. 

In knitting, the beginner should aim to work rather loose, so that the stitches 
will slip easily on the needle. If the thread is drawn too tight, it becomes difficult 
to pick up the stitches, especially wlien working with fine thread and steel needles. 
To Cast On Stitches With One Needle— Hold the end of the thread under the 
third and fourth fingers of the left hand. With the right (which also holds the 
needle) bring the thread from under the left thumb up over it and also over the 
first finger of the left hand, then downward under the finger and up over the thumb 
(see Fig. 1). Next pass the point of the needle under the crossing and up back of 
that portion of the thread that is brought down from the first finger (see Fig. 2) ; 
draw it forward toward the left, grasp the crossing with the thumb and finger (see Fig. 3). throw the thread over the needle 
with the right hand (which holds the thread as in regular knitting), draw a loop through, slip the thread ofif the left first finger 
and draw it down to knot the stitch or loop on the needle. Repeat until j'ou have the required number of stitches on the needle. 
Plain Knitting (Fig S) — The thumb and first finger of the right hand have the principal part of the work to do. The left 
hand keeps almost motionless. After casting on one row of stitches insert the right-hand needle into the front part of the 
first loop on the left needle, throw thread over left needle, as shown in Fig. 4 on page 83, drawing the thread through with tlie 
right needle and slipping off the loop or stitch from left needle. 

To Purl (Figs. 6, 7. 8) — Throw the thread over in 
front of right-hand needle. Keep the first loop of 
the left needle near the point of the left needle. 
Take up the loop with right-hand needle by insert- 
ing the needle in front loop from back to front. 
Throw the yarn around the right needle, drawing 
the thread through to back, and at tlie same time 
let the loop or stitch slip from the left needle. 





nn Hinnu mmmfi mum n 



•ECligf 



n n in n mninin n d n 



n o n nnt rn 




To Decrease by Plain Knitting^Slip one stitch from 
needle, knitting next stitch plain and then draw the 
slipped-off stitch over the knitted stitch. This is the 
method to be employed in binding off or finishing a 
piece of knitting ; the stitches are "knit and slipped" 
imtil there is only one stitch left on the needle ; then 
the thread is Ijroken and the end drawn through the 
hist stitch. 

To Decrease by Purl — Purl two loops oft' together. 

To Increase — Make two loops out of one, working 
first one stitch in front loop, and then, by leaving 
stitch on left needle, another loop in the back thread 
of same loop. The same thing may be done when the 
row is purled. 

Slip Stitch — Slip a stitch from one needle to the 
other without either Icnitting or purling it. 

Directions for Knitting Holes. (Pattern illustrated 
on page 85) — Knit as many rows as are desired in plain 
knitting, then in the row where the holes are to be 
made knit five stitches plain then knit two together, 



five more plain, two more together and continue in 
this way to the end of the row. On the return row 
knit the five plain stitches, then throw thread over 
needle, five more stitches, thread over needle and con- 
tinue in this way to end of row. Knit the next row 
plain, knitting the "thread over" stitches just like the 
others. The holes may be spaced farther apart if de- 
sired by simply knitting more plain stitches between. 

Abbreviations Used in Knitting 

K — Knit plain. P — Purl. N — Narrow. SI — Slip 
stitch. — Over. 

■if Stars or asterisks mean that the directions given 
between them are to be repeated as many times as 
directed before going on with the directions which 
follow. 

Symbols Used in Directions for Patterns on pages 86 and 87 

H Plain. 

• Purl. 

4M Narrow by slii)ping one loop and knitting one. 
Draw slipped loop over knitted one. 

^ Narrow Ijy knitting two loops together. 

Thread over needle. 

V Knit two loops out of one. 

1 I Slip thread from one needle on to another. 



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Page 83 



Motion 



Knitted lace is quite as durable as that which is crocheted, but as it takes a much longer time to knit a yard 
of edging or insertion than it does to crochet it, comparatively little knitted lace is made. The designs for knitted 
laces are always more line and delicate than those to be carried out in crocheting, the patterns shown on page 87 
being typical. The insertion and edging to match, pictured on page 87, would be especially attractive on pillow 
slips, bedspreads or bolster covers. 





Fig. 7. Purl — Second Motion 



Fig. 8. Purl— Third Motion 



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Page 84 



^»ji:it^-» 



D u ill! Dnniniimniumi 




Fancy Knitting Patterns 

The pattern on the left shows the very popular border of two plain and two 
purl ; and the pattern on the right is a fancy open mesh pattern done as follows : 



Fancy Open Mesh Knitting Pattern 

1st row — Kn plain. 

2nd row — Purl. 

3rd row — -^ slip 1, knit 1, slip the slipped 
loop over the knitted one. Repeat from -^ tij 
end of row, then repeat from first row and 
continue working in this way for length 
desired. 




How To Knit Holes 



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■ ^«?i:it^»i» 



Page 85 



uiiJiuimiiUiiiMi m uiiuiiiiiMi uuuu UMiujiMiLUiiiiuiu i 




Knitted Lace in Fine Thread 

This very dainty lace in the smaller sizes is suitable for fine 
handkerchiefs, baby outfits, fine lingerie, etc. The larger 
model is the same pattern, and may be worked in any width 
by enlarging the pattern with cross-section paper. 

O. N. T. 6 Cord Mercerized Crochet Cotton No. 60-100, and 
two Milward's Steel Knitting Needles No. 18 are used. 

For the wide lace cast on 25 loops. For the smaller one 15. 

By referring to the diagrams it will be seen that only the 
uneven rows are shown. The even rows are all done in plain 
knittinsr. 



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Page 86 



■aaciigT 



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Knitted Laces 




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Even rows are knit plain. The explanation of the 
symbols used in these knitting diagrams is given on 
page 83. 







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mifj^tj^ ^ J^ ^B? iiiiuuiiuiiiiinnnmiinmRiioiunn 



Page 87 



Weaving 




The Frame Assembled 



and these in turn maj- be made into. bags, runners, 
cts or negligees. 



A comparatively new form of needlework has been 
made possible in the last few years, by means of a small 
weaving frame which is adjiistal)le to any size up to 
fifteen inches. 

This frame before being assembled, consists of four 
sticks or sections exactly alike in size and shape, each 
section having twenty-six grooves or slots and a metal 
connector at one end. The figures from 4 to 15 on the 
top of each section indicate the number of inches to 
which the frame may be adjusted. The metal connectors 
provide a means of joining the various sections and thus 
forming a complete frame on which a net may be woven. 

Each metal end or connector has a round hole in the 
center through which the numbers of the adjoining sec- 
tions may be seen when the frame is being put together, 
thus making it a very simple matter to assemble the four 
parts accurately. 

By means of this frame mats of almost any shape — • 

round, square, oval, oblong or octagon — may I_)e woven, 

scarfs, sofa pillows, bedspreads and even into dainty little jack- 



Practically any kind of thread may be used on this frame, silk, cotton, wool or linen producing equally satis- 



Page 88 



■i«gtTi:n^" 



no muni m am mmnHin [ 



UNHU Ul UUHU IWU I 



factory results. Cotton, however, is more often used, the mercer- 
ized threads having quite as attractive an appearance as silk at 
a considerably lower cost and the numerous weights in which cot- 
ton threads may be bought make it suitable for practically every 
purpose. 

Woven table mats are much newer and even more practical 
than the crocheted mats which have been popular for so many 
years. Crocheted mats always required an asbestos mat under- 
neath, but when these woven mats are made with No. 3 Pearl 
Cotton or a very coarse mercerized thread it would be an excep- 
tionally hot dish that would require an asbestos pad as well. 
I Although the frame will not make a piece of weaving larger 
than fifteen inches square, it is possible to make a centerpiece 
twenty-one or even twenty-seven inches in diameter by simplv 
weaving it in four sections, joining them after the work is com- 
pleted. Such a centerpiece is shown on page 91, this one being 
twenty-seven inches in diameter. For a piece of this size four 
large mats, made with the frame set 15 x 15, will be needed and one 
small 5x5 mat for the center. Use white or cream Pearl Cot- 
ton No. 5 or Spool Cotton No. 8, in either twelve, sixteen or 
twenty-four strands. Join the large mats together by their square 

sides ; cut off all the fringe on the small mat except four threads at each corner, which may be used to tie this 
mat in the center hole of the large mat. Trim the fringe to the same length all around. 

With this centerpiece should go six or more small mats or doilies eight inches in diameter to be used for bread 
and butter plates, or cups and saucers. The breakfast or luncheon plates will require nine-inch doilies while a 




A Prettv Dressina; Sack 



yw:w«" 



UP ui u ii Ui uiiiiuiinij u m 



Page 89 









lUi^iiikiuiUMiiMiiiiii 

Mat To Put Under Hot Dishes 




couple of oval mats, eight by ten or ten liy twelve inches, should also be 
inckuled in the set, to lie placed under the platters or serving dishes to 
be used on the table. 

Directions for putting the frame together or assemliling the parts, 
as it is called, come with every frame that is sold so that there is no 
need for repeating them here, but it may be as well to give the founda- 
tion or groundwork for some of the more simple mats. 

A square mat is, of course, the easiest to make, so we will begin 
with that. After the frame has been put together, start at one corner 
by tying the strand of thread in the first outside slot next to the metal 
connector or corner (see illustration of frame). Then run the strand 
thrciugh the first slot in the same section, to the right of the metal cor- 
ner, then across to the corresponding slot in the opposite section ; wind 



it around the outside of the dental in that direction, return through second slot 
in that section across the frame again through the corresponding skit and wind 
around the outside of the dental to point of starting. Repeat this operation 
eight times in the same slots, until there are eight strands across the frame from 
each slot. Then pass on to the next two slots and wind eight strands and con- 
tinue winding in this way until all the slots have eight strands across the frame. 
Now pass the cord underneath the corner and run across the frame in directly 
opposite way, putting eight strands into each slot, same as on first side ; then 
return to the first slots at right angles again, going completely across the frame 
three times each way until there are twenty-four strands in every slot. 

The laid threads are now ready to be tied and this is done with a piece of the 
same thread put through the eye of a bodkin, coarse darning or tape needle. 
Begin at any corner, and pass the thread diagonally around the interwoven 




A TuiiibliT Duily 



Page 90 



iiiiiniunnintMDmniiiinminniiiMriiiiiiimniiiiiflitin * jt•J^^||^ fy m 



nmnn w uu on n n du n MOUiiutJi u iin uiiiiii ^ 



strands at first intersection; draw tight and knot on underside of 
mat (see illustration of frame marked C) ; pass on diagonally to 
next intersection, again draw tight and knot on lower side or bottom 
of mat and continue in this way until all the strands have been tied 
one way. Then begin at corner marked B and work in the same way, 
and when this second row of diagonal threads has been tied, the mat 
is finished. To remove the mat from the frame push the latter apart 
at the corners and then slip the mat off the frame. Lighter weight 
and less expensive articles may be woven by making the mat of only 
eight or sixteen strands thickness. In order to make round, oval or 
octagon shape mats the weaving is done just as if a square mat 
was to be made, but when the knotting is begun the edge must be 
"stepped," some of the tying being done between the intersections. 
In anything but a square mat the outline is tied first, and afterward 
all the intersections, diagonally, both ways, within the outline. 

When larger articles, such as soft pillows, dresser scarfs or bed- 
spreads, are to be made, it is necessary to join the squares together 
until the desired size is obtained. This joining is done by tying the 
uncut fringe loops of the mats together. Take, for instance, the 

centerpiece shown on this page. This is made of four mats fifteen inches square and one mat five inches square. 
When the mats were completed, two were laid, right side up, so that the fringe loops of one mat overlapped, or 
laid on top of, the loops of the other mat. Then the loops of the one mat were tied firmly to the edge or border of 
the other, by running a single thread of the same material through the loop and around the edge, tying firmlv. 
When the one side was finished the mats were turned over and the other loops and edge tied together, afterward 
joining the third and fourth mats together and then the other two by the same method. After the large mats 
were joined the small center was inserted in the same way and the outer fringe cut and trimmed to an even length. 




A Large Centerpiece 



ma m mmmw " J < W k' Hi rft * 



Page 91 



Ill u n iHi n 




CROCHET 




CROCHET 
& TATTING 




CROCHET 
TWIST 




THE STANDARD THREAD FOR HAND AND MACHINE SEWING 
Proper Thread Sizes for Various Materials 



Heavy Woolens, Tickings, Bags, Heavy Coats, Trousers, 
Etc. Heavy Clothing generally. 


Nos. 8 to 24 


Tickings, Woolen Goods, Trousers, Boys' Clothing, 
Corsets, Cloaks, Mantles, Etc. 


Nos. 24 to 40 


All kinds of Heavy Calicoes, Light Woolen Goods, Heavy 
Silks, Seaming, Stitching, Dressmaking, Etc. 


1 
Nos. 30 to 50 


Shirtings, Sheetings, Bleached Calicoes, Muslins, Silks, 
General Domestic Goods, and all Classes of General Work. 


Nos. 50 to 70 


Very fine Calicoes, Linens, Linen Shirtings, Fine Silk 
Goods. Etc. 


Nos. 70 to 100 


Very fine thin Muslins, Cambrics, Linens, Etc. 


Nos. 100 to 200 




DARNING 



■^OiB- 



fin n nmoum in iti n mm n mnni mnmiunii n n mm nun mm Mimi 




6 CORD 

MERCERIZED 

CROCHET 




•LUSIRE" 




MERCERIZED 
DARNING 



Page 92 



Concerning Clark's O. N. T. Articles 



For many years Clark's O. N. T. Spool Cotton has been synonymous 
with "The best cotton thread.'' The ever-increasing world wide use ot 
these threads, wliich are now made to suit every rec^uirement for sewing, 
crocheting, embroidery, smocking, darning, tatting, and knitting, must 
be accepted as an eloquent tribute to their steadfast quality and merit. 

The illustrations present the Clark's O. N. T. Cotton Threads now 
available throughout the country. A brief description is appended for 
your information and guidance. 

Spool Cotton 

Clark's O. N. T. Spool Cotton is the standard six cord sewing thread 
for hand and machine sewmg. Three tlireads of two strands each are 
twisted into one, producing a six- cord thread unequaled for strength, 
elasticity and smoothness. There are two liundred yards on each spool, 
one dozen spools in each box. O. N. T. may be obtained in White and 
Black in sizes 8 to 200 and in one hundred and twenty staple colors in 
sizes 50 and 60. O. N. T. colors are used extensively on silk as well as 
on cotton fabrics. 

Crochet Cottons 

Clark's O. N. T. Crochet Cotton is the standard six cord cabled 
crochet, and is used lor all kinds ot crochet work when a plain finish is 
desired. The coarse sizes are used for bedspreads, pillow shams, etc. 
A steady demand for this plain crochet has continued regardless of the 
advent of mercerized cottons. There are two hundred yards on each 
spool, ten spools in each box. O. N. T. Crochet may be obtained in 
\Vhitc in sizes 5 to 100, and in Blaclc, Cream, Light Cream, Ecru, 
I'urkey Red and Moss Green in sizes 30 to 50. 

Clark's O. N. T. Crochet & Tatting Cotton is a superior quality of 
plain finish si.K cord crochet and tatting cotton, and is used for extra 
fine work. It is especially adapted for Irish and Venetian laces. There 
are two hum] red and twenty yards to each ball, ten balls to the box. 
This quality is made in White only, sizes 30, 40, 50, 60, 70 and SO. 

Clark's O. N. T, Crochet Twist is a six cord, hard twisted, plain 
finish crochet cotton, strong, smooth, elastic, and free from knots, 
prepared specially for making large pieces such as bedspreads, curtains, 



centerpieces, table runners pillow shams and doilies. There are two 
hundred and twenty yards on each ball, sixteen balls to the box. It is 
made in White, Cream, Ecru and Arabian and in one size only, .\o. S. 
Clark's O. N. T. Six Cord Mercerized Crochet is a cabled or corded 
cotton of superior quality, excellent lustre and i)cilect smoollines.s. The 
medium sizes are used for general work, laces, edges, insertions, iloilies, 
bags, belts, purses, shawls, slippers, etc.; the line sizes for la I ling, 
Irish and other fine crochet, and the coarse sizes for bedspreads, cur- 
tains, centerpieces, fringes, tassels and macrame work. The yardage 
per ball varies according to size, from yj yards of No. 1 to 385 yards of 
No. 100. It is made in White and Ecru in sizes 1 to 100 and in a number 
of popular shades in the most desirable sizes. 

Clark's O. N. T. "Lustre" Crochet Cotton is a two ply me.liuin- 
twisted mercerized cotton of excellent brilliancy and exceptional softness. 
Since its introduction several years ago its popularity li;is rapidly 
advanced. It is used for all kinds of crochet, embroidery, knitting anil 
smocking. As a substitute for silk for general work it has no equal. 
There are one hundred yards on each spool, one dozen spools in each 
box. O. N. T. "Lust're" may be obtained in White, Black and sixty 
staple colors — one size only. 



Darning Cottons 

Clark's O. N. T. Darning Cotton is an eight-ply, four-end, loose- 
• twisted cotton of exceptional suit tics s. The strands may easily be 
separated, so that one to four may be used at a time. It is the stand- 
ard cotton for darnmg and mending hosiery and undergarments. The 
White is used also as a foundation for initials, monograms and heavy 
embroidery. There are forty-five yards on each spool, one dozen si-mols 
in each box. O. N. T. Darning Cotton may be obtained in Black, Whit;; 
and sixteen staple colors. 

Clark's O. N. T. Mercerized Darning Cotton is a four strand, loose- 
twisted thread, soft and pliable, for darning and mending silU, mer- 
cerized and lisle hosiery, undergarments, gloves, etc. The strands 
may easilv be separated. There are forty -five yards on each ball, 
twelve balls to the box. It may be obtained in Black, White and 
sixteen staple colors. 



■^HJjg- 



u nun luu nu i 



Page 9? 



u jni rauuu uu u uuuu u 



utf u uy u nu uu u u uu lu uy uy u uiuu u Ji uuffl LUnn "* u. mm o 




PEARL 
LARGE BALLS 



PEARL SKEINS 



PEARL 
MEDIUM BALLS 



snniuuDiuuiiuiinuuunnn un uu uu u 



Page 94 



•anrww: 



li nm nir H 



I ni n nu unn n 



Embroidery Cottons 

The excellent lustre, uiiiiormity of color, size and twist of Clark's 
O. N. T. embroidery cottons make using them a delight, and, what is 
perhaps the most important feature, they are warranted to be absolutely 
fast if ordinary care is taken when laundering. They have been put up 
ill various forms so as to meet the requirements of every class of arc 
needlework. 

Clark's O. N. T. Embroidery Cotton is a two-ply cotton of excellent 
lnstie and exceptional softness. The White is made in sizes A, B, C, 
O, E and l' in Hard Twist, and in three sizes. Coarse, Medium and Fine 
in Soft Twist. It is unequaled for working on flannel, linen, and while 
goods. The colors arc made in a large range of well blended sharles in 
two sizes. Rope and Floria, which come in Soft Twist only. The White 
is used for all styles of embroidery, but is especially adapted for Wal- 
lacbian. Mount Mellick, eyelet, hardanger, hedebo, and solid embroidery. 
The colors in Rope size are used for conventional and floral designs on 
heavy material ; in Floria size they are used with excellent results for 
conventional and floral designs. O. N. T, Embroidery Cotton is put up 
ill varying yardages per skein, according to color and size. 

Clark's O. N. T. Coton A Broder is a soft, round, medium twisted 
cotton of excellent lustre, and is used for cross stitch, French embroid- 
ery, shadow embroidery, filling, eyeleting, initialing, outline work, and 
punch work. There are twenty metres in each skein — about 22 yards, 
thirty-six skeins in cacli box. Clark's O. N^. T. Coton A Broder may be 
obtained in White and a large range of nicely blending colors — the White 
in sizes 8 to 60; the Black and Colors in sizes 16, 25 antl o5. 

Clark's O. N. T. Floss Embroidery Cotton (Long Skeins) is a soft, 
loose- twisted, mercerized cotton, made in White only, and is used for 
French embroidery, shadow embroidery, eyeleting, scalloping, etc., but 
is especially adapted for initial work on handkerchiefs, napkins, doilies, 
and on extra fine materials. The length per skein varies from 55 to 109 
yards according to size. Clark's O. N. T. Floss Embroidery Cotton may 
be obtained in sizes 6 to 60. 

Clark's O. N. T. 6 Strand Cotton (SSort Skeins) is a loose-twisted, 
mercerized cotton nf excellent lustre and exceptional softness. The 
strands may easily, be separated, so that from one to six may be used 
at a time. This feature makes the cotton adaptable for White and floral 
embroidery, cross-stitch, marking stitch, etc.. on both light and heavy 
fabrics. It is particularly recommended for lingerie, handkerchiefs, and 
very fine work. There are eight metres in each skein — about 9 yards, 
twenty-four skeins in each box. Clark's O. N. T. 6 Strand Cotton may 
be obtained in \\niite, Black, and a large range of nicely blending 
colors in one size only, No. 2S. 

Clark's O. N. T. 4 Strand Cotton (Small Balls) is a soft. loose-twisted 
cotton of excellent lustre and sui)erior finish, used for embroidery, mend- 
ing, and crochet work*. The strands may easily be separated, making it 
suitable for genera! requirements, and especially for solid, outline, 
shadow work, cross-stitch, and for mending hosiery and underwear. 



The Small Balls contain twenty-eight yards each, and are obtainable 
in White and a large range oi nicely blending shades. 

Clark's O. N. T. 4 Strand Cotton (Large Balls) is a soft, loose-twisted 
cotton oi excellent lustre and superior finish, used for embroidery, 
mending and crochet work. Tlie strands may easily be separateil, 
making it suitable for general requirements, and especially for solid, 
outline, shadow work, cross-stitch, and for mending hosiery and under- 
wear. The Large Balls contain fifty-six yards each, and are obtainable 
in White and Black only. 

Clark's O. N. T. Marking Cotton is a plain finished, four-ply, 
medium-twisted cotton, especially prepared for marking and embroidery. 
The White is excellent for general embroidery work when a dull iuiish 
is desired. There are thirty yards on each spool, and twelve spools to 
the box. It is made in three colors, Turkey Red, White and Blue, ami 
in six sizes, numbers 8, 10, 13, 14, 16 and IS. 

Pearl Cottons 

Because of its adaptability for various uses Pearl Cotton has rapidly 
grown in favor. Clark's O. N. T. Pearl Cotton is a two-ply. medium- 
twistecl. mercerized cotton of excellent lustre and exceptional softness, 
and is used for all kinds of crocheting, embroidery, knitting and smock- 
ing. It is i>ut up in four separate and distinct forms. 

Clark's O. N .T. Pearl Cotton in Small Skeins is especially adaptet! 
for designs on heavy materials, outline work, cross-stitch, French knots, 
hardanger, scalloping, and for edges on wash cloths, etc. There are 
twelve skeins in each box, the length per skein being as follows: 
Size 3. 16 Yards. Size 5. 27 Yards. Size 8, -49 Yards. 

Clark's O. N. T. Pearl Cotton in Small Skeins may be obtained in 
White in sizes 3, 5 and 8, and in a large range of nicely blending 
colors in si?e 5 only. 

Clark's O. N. T. Pearl Cotton (Small Balls) is put up by weight — 
10 grammes to the ball, ten balls in each box, and is used for all kituls 
of crochet worlc, embroitlery, knitting and smocking. As a substitute 
for silk for general work it has no equal. Clark's O. N. T. Pearl Cotton 
Small Balls may be obtained in White, sizes 5, 8 and 12, and in a large 
range of nicelv blending colors in size 8 onlv. 

Clark's O. N. T. Pearl Cotton (Medium Balls) is put up by weight— 
20 grammes to the ball, ten balls in each box, and is used for knitting, 
crocheting ami embroidering baby carriage-covers, baby jackets, slip- 
pers, afghans, shawls, bedspreads, centerpieces, table mats, doilies, laces, 
bags, purses, belts, etc. The White and Black are supplied in three 
sizes, Kos. 3, 5 and 8; the colors, of which there is a large range of 
nicelv blending shades, mav be had in two sizes. Nos. 3 and 5. 

Clark's O. N. T. Pearl Cotton (Large Balls) is put up by weight— 
50 grammes to the ball, ten balls in each box. and is exactly the same 
as the medium balls, but it is especially adapted for making hirgc 
pieces, as its use necessitates few er knots. Clark's O. N. T. Pearl 
Cotton I,arge Balls may be obtained in the same colors and sizes as 
the Medium Balls. 



imnuiiiiTinnniuniiiiimi 



gili^WWti 



PaKc 95 



m u mm uu uun un unjuiuninuruiM 




HOUSEHOLD NEEDLE CASE. 



MILWARD'S HELIX NEEDLES 






J 



p/iEEDLESjl 



Kj^aM^I I 



85 NEEOueS 

" SHARPS 

J.F.»11LWARD 



COLD EYESil 




WEST END NEEDLE CASE. 



PLAIN EYES 



GOLD EYES. 







^«8 »SHEP ' 



f^ .^v^ E'-C ^. I 



HHH^I 






^ X-.SO.V.V " 
PATENT HELIX 
„v\EEDLES; 

K, 

CREWEL 

pi;' 3to9 "5 

J.r. MU.WAUU 






TEN NEEDLES 


I^^^^HB 






SPOOL COTTON 

/r/s rz/f- BEST. 



LOOPTHE COTTONi 
OVER THE HEAD OF 
Ik the NEEDLE y 




XEEDLES; 



TAPESTRY 

I. I mil\i.u-;d 



TgN Hg^PLga. 



MILLINERS 



CREWEL 



CALYX-EYED 



CHENILLE 



TAPESTRY 



Imifliiuiuiun nnn n D n 

Page 96 



yw:witi. 



n HI [iniiiiiinnnniumninsniiiiii 



B uuuu u uin luuinwiULu uu 



Henry Milward & Sons' 
Accessories for Plain and Fancy Needlework 



To obtain the best results, first class materials are absolutely essen- 
tial. Your attention, therefore, is directed to the superior quality and 
excellent finisli of the Needles, Crochet Hooks, Knitting Needles, and 
various otlier articles of Messrs. Henry Milward & Sons, Ltd.. which 
are the result of more than one hundred years of experience. They are 
made of the best steel, by skilled workmen and by the most improved 
metliods. 



Milward's Calyx-Eyed Needles. This needle was made to meet a long 
felt want — that of a needle whicli could be threaded without any strain 
on the eyes. To thread the Calyx-Eyed Needle, the cotton is looped over 
the head of the needle and drawn downward, as shown in the illustra- 
tion. They are made in two lengths, Sharps and Betweens, and are put 
up both in solid and assorted sizes, Nos. 1 to 9, ten needles to the paper. 







Proper Needle Sizes for Clark's O. N. T. Spool Cotton 








Clark's O.N.T. 
Spool Cotton Nos. 


8 


10 


12 


16-20 


24-30 


36-40 


50-60 


70-80 


90-100 


110-120 


130-140 150-200 


Milward's . 
Needles Nos. 


2 


3 


4 


5 


6 


7 


8 


9 


10 


11 


12 



Needles for Hand Sewing 

Milward's Helix Needles are made in three lengths, designated Sharps, 
Betweens and Ground Downs, in all sizes necessary lor ordinary and 
special uses. 

Milward's Gold Eye Needles. The eyes of these needles are burnished 
with gold, in order that they may be more easily threaded, particularly 
when used in an artificial light. They are made in two lengths, desig- 
nated Sharps and Betweens, and in all sizes necessary for ordinary and 
special uses. 

Milward's Milliners Needles are made both Plain and Gold Eyed. The 
particular feature of these needles is that they are extra long. They are 
made in all sizes necessary for ordinary and special uses. 

Milward's Helix, Gold Eye and Milliners Needles are put up both in 
solid and assorted sizes, twenty-five needles to the paper. 

Milward's Needle Books. These are obtainable in several sizes and 
qualities, the most popular being the "West End" assortment of two 
hundred and fifty needles, and the "Household" assortment of one hun- 
dred and fifty needles, both being intended for general requirements. 



Milward's Glovers Needles are used for glove, fur and leather work. 
They are put up in solid sizes only, Nos. 1 to S, twenty-five needles to 
the paper. 

Needles for Embroidery 

Milward*5 Crewel Needles are extensively used for all kinds of em- 
broidery, and arc much better adapted for the purpose than tlie ordinary 
sewing needle. They are put up in solid and assorted sizes, Nos. 1 to 12, 
ten needles to the paper, and twenty-five needles to the paper. 

Milward's Chenille Needles are used for Chenille, Arrasene, Lace, and 
Embroidery work. They are made in solid and assorted sizes, Nos. 1 to 
10, and are put up ten needles to the paper, and twenty-five needles to 
the paper. 

Milward's Tapestry Needles are used for tapestry, rug, cross-stitch, 
and hardanger work. They are made in solid and assorted sizes, Nos. 17 
to 28, and are put up ten needles to the paper, and twenty-five needles 
to the paper. 



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Page 97 



KNITTING NEEDLE 



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BODKIN 



GLOVERS NEEDLE 



COTTON DARNING NEEDLE 



YARN DARNING NEEDLE 



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NICKEL PLATED STEEL CROCHET HOOK NO. 97 



NICKEL PLATED STEEL CROCHET HOOK NO. 420 






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CLEOPATRA CROCHET HOOK 



RUBBER 
TATTING SHUTTLE 



BONE CROCHET HOOK 




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BONE 
TATTING SHUTTLE 



BONE STILETTO 



BONE BODKIN 



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Page 98 



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Needles for Darning 

Milward*s Yarn Darning Needles are made in solid sizes, Nos. 14 to 20, 
and are put up twenty-five needles to the paper. They are also put up in 
assorted sizes, to 5, and U to IS, ten needles to the paper. 



Milward's Cotton Darning Needles are made in solid and assorted 
sizes, Nos. 1 to lU, and are put up ten needles to the paper, and twenty- 
five needles to the paper. These are suitable for general worl;. For spe- 
cial uses there arc also "Short" and "Double Long" lengths, ten needles 
to the paper. 



Crochet Hooks 
Proper Crochet Hook Sizes for Clark's O. N. T. Crochet Cottons 



Clark's O. N. T. 
Crochet Cotton Nos. 


1 


3 


5 


10 


15 


20 


25 30 


40 


50 60 


70 


80 


100 


Milward's 
Crochet Hooks Nos. 


1 


2 


3 


4 


5 


6 


7 


8 


9 


10 


11 


12 


13 


14 



Proper Crochet Hook Sizes for Clark's O. N. T. Pearl Cotton 



O. N. T. Pearl Cotton Nos. 


3 


5 


8 


12 


Milward's Hooks Nos. 


4 


6 


7 


9 



Milward's Nicke! Plated Crochet Hooks No. 97. An attractive feature 
of this hook is the flat grip, which prevents the hook from turning 
when in use and gives perfect control in working. They are made in 
fourteen sizes, Nos. 1 to 14, and in two lengths, five inches and six inches. 

Milward's Nickel Plated Crochet Hooks No. 420— Round Steel Handle- 
are made in fourteen sizes, Nos. 1 to 1-1. 

Milward's Cleopatra Crochet Hooks— Bone Handle— are made in four- 
teen sizes, Xos. 1 to 14. 

Miscellaneous Articles 

Milward's Knitting Needles arc made in eleven sizes, Nos. 12 to 22, 
and may be obtained singly or in sets of five. 



Bone Crochet Hooks. These are made entirely of bone and in two 
lengths, five inch and six inch. The five inch may be bad in six sizes, 
to 5, and the six inch in seven sizes, to 6. 

Bodkins or Tape Needles are obtainable in Bone and Steel, and in 
one size only. 

Stilettos. These are made of Bone, and are obtainable in three sizes, 
Nos. 1, 3. and 5. 

Tatting Shuttles. These are obtainable in Bone in a medium size, 
and in Rubber in two sizes, large and medium. 



Page 99 



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